Still relatively unspoiled, Phuket provides a blissful timeout during a sightseeing trip to Southeast Asia. Recently, the lush and hilly island off the west coast of Thailand has seen the opening of several new hotels, including a property by noted Singaporean hotelier Christina Ong, and the evolution of one of the best restaurant scenes in Asia.
Tipped off to these developments by expatriate friends living in Hong Kong, I added the island to my itinerary during an extended visit to the region. Phuket already has three of my favorite resort hotels — Amanpuri, Six Senses Yao Noi and Trisara, so I was curious to see how the new contenders would stack up.
On arrival at Phuket’s international airport, I was taken aback to see that many of the official signs are now in both Russian and Chinese. Many Russians, it seems, have bought property here as a safe investment outside of the ruble zone, while the Chinese have fallen in love, like everyone else, with the friendly people, reasonable prices, delicious food and gorgeous beaches.
Viewed from afar, the 106-room Point Yamu by COMO hotel has a slightly forbidding appearance. A boxy modern structure, it is set on a crest overlooking the Andaman Sea on Phuket’s east coast, the side of the island that has spectacular views but less desirable beaches. Since I’ve always been a fan of Ong’s other hotels, including COMO Shambhala Estate in Bali and Cocoa Island by COMO in the Maldives, I decided not to jump to any conclusions.
The centerpiece of the open-air lobby proved to be a colorful, stylized Thai altar with votive trays of fruit. Long, lacy cylinder lamps dangled from the high ceiling. We received a warm welcome from staff dressed in airy white linen, then were shown to our suite in the south wing of the building. The hallways were mostly buffed gray concrete, which is a long way from traditional Thai wooden architecture, but small aluminum bowls filled with floating chrysanthemums, and floods of natural light, softened their appearance.
Aesthetically refined, with charming service and exceptional cuisine, Point Yamu by COMO is a distinctly superior resort.
Our suite — the work of distinguished Italian designer Paola Navone — proved a delightful surprise. Stenciled white-and-gray floor tiles, an overstuffed white linen sofa covered with throw pillows, and a lapis lazuli ceramic-topped table with limed oak chairs all contributed to a décor that was stylish and contemporary yet practical and extremely comfortable. The bedroom, which could be completely closed off from the rest of the suite, displayed commendable attention to detail, with exemplary reading lights on long, flexible metal tubes, and master controls on both sides of the bed. An enormous bath provided a circular soaking tub, a walk-in rainfall shower and COMO Shambhala toiletries with scents of eucalyptus and rosemary. French doors led to a small private sundeck — with plunge pool — from which there were sweeping views over the aquamarine expanse of Phang Nga Bay. Having settled in, we ordered a room service lunch, and a delicious array of Thai delicacies arrived in less than 20 minutes.
As a result of its clifftop setting, Point Yamu is not a beach resort. However, many people have become cautious about getting too much sun, and in some ways, it is more relaxing to spend an afternoon by the saltwater pool beneath an umbrella than actually to be on a beach. That said, the resort offers speedboat service to a neighboring island ringed by white sand, and is currently completing a private beach club. Until that is finished, probably sometime this fall, Point Yamu not only has one of the best spas on Phuket — the COMO group is justly renowned for the sophistication of its facilities — but the finest restaurants of any hotel on the island. Nahmyaa is extraordinarily good and serves delectable soups, curries and stir fries inspired by Thai street food. La Sirena, the casual poolside Italian restaurant, offers delicious seafood, and its chefs make excellent use of their wood-fired oven.
If you are looking for a beachfront location, Amanpuri should still be your first choice. But those in search of tranquility and a wellness-focused experience will find Point Yamu much to their taste. Aesthetically refined, with charming service and exceptional cuisine, this is a distinctly superior resort.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: Comfortable and stylish rooms; outstanding restaurants; exceptional spa.
DISLIKE: The lack of screens on the French doors in the bedrooms, preventing sleeping without air-conditioning; less-than-perfect soundproofing.
GOOD TO KNOW: Most cab drivers at Phuket’s airport don’t speak English and seem to have little idea where the hotel is located, so arrange transportation with the hotel in advance.
Point Yamu by COMO 95 Verandah Room with Pool, $400; Verandah Pool Suite, $925. 225 Moo 7, Paklok, Talang, Phuket. Tel. (66) 76-360-100.
During our stay on Phuket, we also spent two nights at the new Anantara Phuket Layan resort on the island’s west coast (close to Trisara). Anantara, a Bangkok-based hotel chain founded by billionaire William Heinecke, is not especially well-known in the United States, but the brand is a favorite of American expatriates in Hong Kong and Singapore because its hotels are unfailingly well-run and well-designed, and deliver excellent value for money.
This quiet and attractive property offers a variety of accommodations in its 30 rooms and suites and 47 pool villas. Half of the hotel is next to the beach, while the other half is perched on a hillside. All rooms are spacious, attractively decorated and equipped with Apple televisions and espresso machines. However, beachcombers will prefer easy access to the white sands from Premier Rooms, Sala Pool Villas and Beachfront Pool Villas. The hotel’s primary swimming pool and restaurants are also located at the center of the beachside accommodations. Created by an Italian chef who has lived in Thailand for many years, the cuisine at the hotel is consistently good. In particular, Dee Plee serves delicious regional Thai specialties such as massaman nua, a southern dish of slow-cooked beef cheeks and crunchy peanuts in a curry flavored with tamarind juice, and pla grapong neung king, sea bass steamed with Thai herbs and served in a soy sauce. Like all Anantara properties, the Phuket property has an outstanding spa. The hotel also offers a complete range of water sports, with kayaks, canoes and surfboards available free.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: The large, well-lit bath in our Sala Pool Villa; the excellent restaurants; the outstanding spa.
DISLIKE: The hotel is located on a tidal bay, so swimming is difficult when the tide is out.
GOOD TO KNOW: The resort provides a fast-track airport service, which is a huge help.
Anantara Phuket Layan 89 Beachfront Layan Pool Villa, $750. 168 Moo 6, Layan Beach Soi 4, Cherngtalay, Thalang, Phuket. Tel. (66) 76-317-200.
The JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa is an excellent choice for multigenerational family trips to Asia.
Since Phuket offers an immense variety of activities and reliably sunny weather for nine months of the year — the only time not to visit is the short rainy season from September to November — the island has become a popular destination for families. Coincidentally, one of my nephews was staying with his wife and children at the JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa during our visit. Based in San Diego, he had chosen this 265-room hotel specifically because of its impressive array of activities for children. Of course, I greatly prefer small, distinctive hotels to large chain properties, but I couldn’t help being impressed. Set on 27 landscaped acres at the edge of the Andaman Sea, the resort offers pleasing architecture, warm and attentive service, and a surprisingly intimate atmosphere. Done up in a scheme of soft pastels, spacious Ocean Front Suites come with polished teak floors, ceiling fans and large decks with private whirlpools. The resort has several pools, including one for adults only, and the fully staffed children’s pavilion offers an ever-changing array of sports, games ands crafts. Overall, this is an excellent choice for multigenerational family trips to Asia.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: The attractive, landscaped seaside setting; spacious, well-appointed rooms; the peerless menu of activities for children of all ages.
DISLIKE: While all of the five restaurants are good, none is outstanding.
GOOD TO KNOW: Both the baby-sitting service and the room service are first-rate.
JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa 89 Ocean Front Suite, $450. 231 Moo 3 Mai Khao, Talang, Phuket. Tel. (66) 76-338-000.
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