Piedmont is one of the gastronomic centers of Europe. Both the food and the wine are consistently exceptional. Here are the restaurants that I most enjoyed on my recent tour.
The brilliant contemporary Italian cooking at chef Enrico Crippa’s three-star establishment makes this the best restaurant in Piedmont.
Piazza Risorgimento 4, Alba. Tel. (39) 0173-366-167.
Few places are as charming on a warm fall day as this well-run old tavern, with its wonderful wine list and a terrace with a view of the Langhe Hills. Try dishes such as tajarin (taglierini), an egg-dough ribbon pasta, with a ragout of rabbit, pork and veal; and veal braised in Barolo wine with peppercorns.
Località Sant’Anna 87, Monforte d’Alba. Tel. (39) 0173-78120.
This friendly trattoria is located in one of the region’s prettiest villages. Look for delicious simple dishes such as poached eggs with goat cheese and black truffles, and venison “osso buco” with Nebbiolo wine.
Frazione Santa Maria 12, La Morra. Tel. (39) 0173-50335.
This formal gastronomic restaurant is housed in a handsome old villa on the Fontanafredda wine estate. Look for locally inspired dishes such as pasta with truffles and porcini, pumpkin gnocchi with a ragout of sausage and radicchio, and delicious roast veal.
Via Alba 15, Serralunga d’Alba. Tel. (39) 0173-626-162.
This popular osteria with a modern setting offers excellent casual dining. Try dishes such as vitello tonnato (chilled veal with creamy tuna sauce); ravioli stuffed with veal, pork and spinach; guinea fowl with chestnuts; and panna cotta with pears cooked in Muscat wine.
Piazza Savona 5, Alba. Tel. (39) 0173-363-974.
This charming osteria is located at the headquarters of the Slow Food movement in Bra. Typical dishes include broccoli and cauliflower flan with a fondue of Raschera cheese, and brasato al Barolo (beef stew cooked with Barolo wine and served with polenta).
Via Mendicità 14, Bra. Tel. (39) 0172-425-674.
Be sure to try the great mushroom dishes in season at this rustic auberge near Canale. The list of Roero wines is excellent.
Località Villa Superiore 59, Monteu Roero. Tel. (39) 0173-90815.
Fish from the nearby port of Liguria features extensively on the menu of this friendly restaurant with a vaulted brick ceiling. Look for dishes such as octopus carpaccio with orange sauce, and black rice with shrimp and vegetables. Meat specialties include rabbit with capers, and guinea fowl cooked in Port wine.
Via Santa Croce 38, Cuneo. Tel. (39) 0171-698-178.
This relatively inexpensive country auberge offers delicious rustic food such as tagliolini with porcini, roast shank of veal, and pears poached in wine. The wine list is superb.
Via Valle Asinari 25, San Marzano Oliveto. Tel. (39) 0141-831-340.
Despite its one-star rating in the Italian Michelin Guide, we found the food here fussy, boring and overpriced — and the service was unfriendly.
Though well-rated by many travelers to Piedmont, this out-of-the-way restaurant is not worth the detour, since the cooking is just better than average and is overpriced.
A version of this article appeared in the March 2015 print edition of Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report under the headline “Piedmont's Best Restaurants.”
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