The Milanese tend to be proudly traditional when it comes to food, prizing Lombardian specialties such as risotto alla Milanese (made with saffron) and cotoletta alla Milanese, flattened breaded veal chop on the bone, often served with a garnish of arugula and cherry tomatoes. But they’ve recently become more gastronomically adventurous. On my recent trip, I discovered three places that combine culinary sophistication with contemporary flair. I also revisited an old favorite.
This two-star restaurant in the heart of the city is widely considered to serve the most inventive cooking in Milan. Chef Carlo Cracco was trained by Italian chef Gualtiero Marchesi, and also studied with Alain Ducasse and Lucas Carton in Paris. His subtle cuisine makes for a fascinating change from traditional Milanese fare. Try dishes such as risotto with sesame seeds and apple gelée, veal kidney with sea urchin, and black cod with honey, coffee and broccoli.
CRACCO Via Victor Hugo 4. Tel. (39) 02-876774.
Located on the first floor of the Trussardi boutique, adjacent to La Scala opera house, this refined restaurant is an excellent choice for lunch, when it serves a good-value prix-fixe menu, or a light supper. The lunch offerings change daily, but the intelligent and creative cooking runs to dishes such as grilled scallops and squid with red cabbage; risotto with turmeric; and pork loin with bacon and butter-braised Savoy cabbage. The service is outstanding.
IL RISTORANTE TRUSSARDI ALLA SCALLA Piazza della Scala 5. Tel. (39) 02-8068-8201.
Popular with fashionable young Milanese, this new restaurant has a colorful décor, a relaxed atmosphere and a creative menu that includes many vegetarian options. Try the red-onion-and-Taleggio strudel to start, and then lasagna with trevisana (red endive) and Gorgonzola, followed by pork loin cooked in bacon and served with aioli.
ZUCCA E MELONE Via Gian Giacomo Mora 3. Tel. (39) 02-8945-5850.
In contrast, this unrepentantly traditional establishment with a handsome Belle Epoque interior is where the Milanese come for local comfort food such as riso al salto, a crispy pancake of saffron-flavored rice; osso bucco with risotto; and filetto scottato con funghi porcini, seared beef with porcini mushrooms. Desserts include caramelized apple cake and an excellent zabaione. The atmosphere is friendly and the service consummately professional.
ANTICA TRATTORIA DELLA PESA Viale Pasubio 10. Tel. (39) 02-655-5741.
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