Mexican cuisine is far more sophisticated than is often assumed. Each region has its own specialties, and ingredients that are fresh, local and seasonal.
Set in the nightlife neighborhood of Chapultepec in Guadalajara, this colorful restaurant serves upscale cuisine inspired by recipes from a variety of Mexican regions. I enjoyed a refreshing and light cold avocado soup with yogurt, watermelon and mint; and a main course of sea bass from the nearby Careyes Coast served on an okra-like cactus paddle and topped with a rich pumpkin-seed mole.
Calle Pedro Moreno 1398, Americana, Guadalajara. Tel. (52) 333-825-5447.
A short taxi ride from downtown Guanajuato, the leafy “Garden of Miracles” makes a lovely setting for a leisurely lunch. The young chef carefully explained each of the nine courses on the tasting menu. Although the creative presentations were contemporary, his passion for local traditions was obvious. I especially liked the “cappuccino,” a savory cream of botil beans topped with tortilla foam and charred tortilla crumbs; and a delicate róbalo (snook) fillet topped with an asparagus-spinach sauce.
Calle Alhóndiga 80, Guanajuato. Tel. (52) 473-732-9366.
Simply called “Lu” by Morelians, this restaurant ranks among the city’s best. Chef Lucero Soto digs deep into Michoacán cuisine, creating contemporary dishes with a strong sense of place. We selected the tasting menu, which started with three mezcals distilled from the local wild cupreata agave, and cotija cheeses of various ages. Tostadas topped with fresh tuna, arugula and spicy mole followed, along with a “seasonal soup” of mushrooms and al dente vegetables. And I loved the grilled lamb chops with a zesty peanut mole, accompanied by a tamale-like corunda.
Portal Hidalgo 229, Centro Histórico, Morelia. Tel. (52) 443-313-1328.
This article appeared in the November 2014 print edition of Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report under the headline “Regional Restaurant Discoveries.”
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