Compared with other former laggards such as Stockholm, Copenhagen, and Berlin, Amsterdam has made surprisingly little gastronomic progress. It may be a wealthy and sophisticated city, but solid Dutch cooking has yet to find a contemporary idiom here. (If you want to try local dishes, head for Greetje on Peperstraat.)
The most interesting new restaurant is the oddly named &samhoud places in the Oosterdokskade neighborhood, which deservedly won two stars in the 2013 edition of the Benelux Michelin guide. Israel-born Dutch chef Moshik Roth serves exquisite little cameos such as oyster with borage, lemon, chamomile and sea urchin foam; or sole with onions, kumquats, cauliflower and hazelnuts. These arrive in a succession of tasting portions. I increasingly dislike such complex, finicky menus, but Roth’s was brilliant from start to finish. Frankly, the only thing I didn’t care for about this place was the arrogant and not very knowledgeable sommelier.
&SAMHOUD PLACES Oosterdokskade 5. Tel. (31) 20-260-2094.
My other recent Amsterdam favorites include:
This chic brasserie, with its buzzy atmosphere and post-industrial setting, has a slightly louche glamour that makes it irresistible to Dutch arts, cinema and showbiz people. And the food is very good. Start with the fish soup, then try the plaice with truffle butter on wilted spinach, or the roast chicken, before enjoying a superb tarte Tatin for dessert.
LE GARAGE Ruysdaelstraat 54. Tel. (31) 20-679-7176.
Indonesian food is to Amsterdam as Indian food is to London — a much-loved edible souvenir of the colonial past. The best place in the city to sample this intriguing cuisine is Tempo Doeloe (“the old days” in Indonesian). Indonesian dishes tend to be spicier — a result of the extensive use of cloves, cinnamon and cardamom — but not hotter than those of other Southeast Asian countries.
TEMPO DOELOE Utrechtsestraat 75. Tel. (31) 20-625- 6718.
The very freshest catch of the day from Holland’s North Sea ports has made this stylish seafood restaurant enormously popular. The menu varies among classic European preparations and those from countries farther afield, especially Asia.
VISAANDESCHELDE Scheldeplein 4. Tel. (31) 20-675-1583.
This intimate restaurant near the Amsterdam flower market serves fresh, market-driven, Dutch-inflected continental cooking. Look for dishes such as oyster and green apple tartare, and cod in a sauce of split peas with roasted root vegetables. The service is friendly, and the brief wine list appealing.
ZUID ZEELAND Herengracht 413. Tel. (31) 20-624-3154.
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