San Francisco's Tadich Grill

There is a long and circuitous origin myth on the menu of the Tadich Grill, which sits in San Francisco's Financial District three blocks off the Embarcadero. Suffice to say that it's been around in one Croatian-American guise or another since 1849, when it began as a waterfront coffee tent during the Gold Rush. That makes it the oldest restaurant in the state, which could give it an excuse to put on airs, but I found it to be an exceptionally welcoming place.

Patrons here are a mix of business people young and old, tourists from Union Square and locals out for a splurge. The white-jacketed wait staff is cordial and busy. At noon on a recent weekday, the oak bar was full and buzzing; a long string of white wine and iced tea glasses stretched from the front door to the kitchen. Every now and then, a couple of gin martinis were whisked to the wood booths. I was waved with a smile past the brass railing to a stool between a pair of young technology workers and a gentleman enjoying a bowl of oyster stew and a glass of Cabernet. I opted for a glass of steely Monterey Pinot Grigio and the house specialty, the seafood cioppino (sounds Italian but it's San Franciscan). A rich, salty tomato broth contained the sea: clams, prawns, scallops, bay shrimp, crabmeat. Two slices of crisp garlic bread were delicately cantilevered off the side of the bowl. It was perfect.

The local complaint about Tadich is that it's overpriced, the food is only so-so and securing a booth can be difficult (they don't take reservations). But for lunch, I tend to favor friendly and familiar over lonely and perfect; the pristine new Michael Mina next door (in his old Aqua space) might as well have had tumbleweeds blowing through it. I suggest you arrive at Tadich early, sit at the bar, have a glass of something cold, then go with the tried and true: cioppino, oyster stew, crab salad or avocado and shrimp diablo. No complaints here.  -A.H.

Tadich Grill, 240 California Street, San Francisco. (415) 391-1849. Lunch for one, including two drinks, about $50.