Travelers to Costa Rica will almost inevitably have to spend at least one night in or near the country’s capital, San José. This architecturally undistinguished city is reasonably safe, though I don’t recommend wandering around at night. On my recent trip, I stayed both in the city and on its outskirts. The rambling 40-room Hotel Grano de Oro, composed of several buildings based around a historic house, remains the best choice in the center. The richly decorated Vista de Oro Suite impresses with dramatic tilework, oak wainscoting, historic photos and warm wood furnishings. A hot tub overlooks the lights of the city, adjacent to the small wood-paneled bath. The Garden Suite, in the living room of the original mansion, makes a good second choice. The two Jacuzzis on the roof deck are tempting, but the Grano de Oro’s restaurant is the hotel’s star amenity. A tender scallop atop a cake of al dente risotto displayed well-honed technique, and I also enjoyed the ambitious “degustation of rabbit.” A light dessert of melon soup with sour cream ice cream and a sherry sphere made for a memorable conclusion.
Regrettably, the restaurant of my other favorite San José hotel, the 13-room Finca Rosa Blanca, did not achieve the same distinction. One appetizer simply never arrived, and my “Costa Rican Seafood Soup,” which promised “fresh fish, shrimp, squid and tiny clams” was barely edible. The squid was absent, and the fish had been ground up and formed into shapeless gray balls. Glacial service at least gave us plenty of time to enjoy the panoramic view. The whimsical accommodations, designed in a tropical art nouveau style, were much more charming than the restaurant. In our junior suite, contemporary artworks adorned the white plaster walls, large windows kept things bright, and a terrace presented fine views of the capital. Housekeeping failed to notice a puddle of rainwater on the flagstone floor, but it quickly disappeared after I mentioned it to the front desk.
I much prefer the location of Finca Rosa Blanca, its pleasant gardens and inviting pool overlooking bustling San José. But those requiring a reliable restaurant should opt instead for the Grano de Oro.
AT A GLANCE:
LIKE: The excellent restaurant; the tranquil courtyard; the rambling, historic architecture.
DISLIKE: The lack of turndown service.
GOOD TO KNOW: The hotel is a 10-minute walk from the very charming Museo de Arte Costarricense.
HOTEL GRANO DE ORO, Rating 91. Garden Suite, $305; Vista de Oro Suite, $455. Calle 30, Avenida 2 Y 4, San Jose. Tel. (506) 2255-3322.
AT A GLANCE:
LIKE: The panoramic views; the unique design; the broad swimming pool.
DISLIKE: The disappointing food.
GOOD TO KNOW: The resort offers a number of excursions, including coffee and volcano tours, which may warrant an extra night’s stay.
FINCA ROSA BLANCA, Rating 90. Junior Suite, $305; Master Suite, $450. Santa Barbara, Heredia. Tel. (506) 2269-9392.
Illustrations © Melissa Colson.
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