Septime — An Excellent New Bistro in Paris

Though it’s in a decidedly off-the-beaten-track part of Paris I’d never been to before — the 11th arrondissement — young chef Bertrand Grébaut’s recently opened bistro Septime is very much worth the trip. Tipped off by local friends, we decided to visit this acclaimed new restaurant for dinner on a beautiful spring night, and after a 15-minute cab ride from Saint-Germain-des-Prés, we arrived in a nondescript neighborhood. We were warmly greeted in the good-looking space with a sort of post-industrial SoHo-style décor of concrete floors, suspension lamps, bare wood tables and an open kitchen.

Despite the location, the attractive, well-dressed crowd assuaged our doubts, and in any event, it’s well known that many of the best young chefs in Paris these days are choosing such outlying neighborhoods in search of lower rents. Studying the laconic menu over glasses of very good Champagne, we didn’t really know what we were in for, but a very friendly English-speaking waiter patiently explained each dish, and all sounded delicious.

I was delighted by my first course, an excellent risotto made with watercress and sorrel, while Mrs. Harper was very happy with her veal tartare with fennel bulb shavings and tapenade. Main courses were excellent, too — cod in a jus de poulet with bok choy, which was a great play of flavors and textures, and a succulent Bigorre pork rib with radishes and carrots. We shared a very good cheese plate, and then finished up with an open tart made with Petit Suisse cheese and chocolate ganache with hazelnut ice cream, crushed candied hazelnuts and shards of caramel.

The wine list here is outstanding, and service throughout the meal was excellent. Though you’ll likely be as puzzled by the neighborhood as I was, it’s well worth the effort of traveling here to enjoy an admirable meal of contemporary French cooking at the most talked-about new table in town. 80 rue de Charonne, 11th. Tel. (33) 01-43-67-38-29. Closed Saturday lunch, Sunday and Monday.