Few museums have Greco-Roman antiquities to rival those of Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli. Many of the greatest pieces come from the Farnese Collection, acquired or requisitioned by Cardinal Alessandro Farnese, who became Pope Paul III in 1543. Among them is the astonishing Farnese Bull, carved from a single massive block of marble and the largest single sculpture recovered from antiquity. Dating to A.D. 3, it was unearthed in the ruins of the Baths of Caracalla and restored by Michelangelo. I especially enjoyed the gorgeous mosaics from Herculaneum and Pompeii. These include the celebrated Alexander Mosaic, dating from 100 B.C., originally from the House of the Faun in Pompeii. This depicts a battle between the armies of Alexander the Great and Darius III of Persia. Up close, the minute detail and consummate artistry are extraordinary.
Although Milan’s La Scala is far better known today, I strongly suggest a visit to Naples’ Teatro di San Carlo. It is the oldest continuously active opera venue in Europe, having opened in 1737, decades before both La Scala and La Fenice in Venice. This superb theater can lay claim to a distinguished heritage of its own. Among the works written for the house were Rossini’s “La Donna del Lago” and Donizetti’s “Lucia di Lammermoor.” The theater was built in 1816 to replace a previous structure destroyed by fire. Of note is the stunning ceiling fresco depicting Apollo presenting the greatest poets of the world to Minerva. The tiers of gold and crimson boxes are most impressive. Even if you don’t attend a performance, a tour is well worthwhile.
It is easy to miss while touring the Spaccanapoli area, but the Museo Cappella Sansevero (Sansevero Chapel Museum) should definitely be on your list. While the chapel dates to the late 1500s, it took its current baroque form under the direction of the seventh Sansevero prince, Raimondo, in the mid-1700s. The prince commissioned several works by sculptor Giuseppe Sammartino, but his unquestioned masterpiece is the extraordinary “Veiled Christ,” completed in 1753. Although hewn from a single block of marble, the shroud covering the body of Christ appears to be of gossamer lightness and transparency. It is considered one of greatest of all baroque sculptures and attracts visitors from all over the world.
This article appeared in the December 2014 print edition of Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report under the headline “Classical Treasures.”
Andrew Harper members have access to full travel-planning services through Andrew Harper Travel.
1 (800) 375-4685
Open M-F 8:30AM-5:30PM CT
