Southern Patagonia

Shared between Chile and Argentina, southern Patagonia is chiefly a land of vast, desolate steppes, though the Chilean section also has areas of conifer and beech forest. High precipitation and cold air combine to create huge glaciers that spill into numerous fjords. Our primary goal was the scenically dramatic Torres del Paine National Park, a four-hour drive from the airport at Punta Arenas. (The airport at Puerto Natales is much closer, but the runway is currently being lengthened and is scheduled to reopen in 2014.) On December 27, 2011, a fire broke out in the center of the park. Abetted by drought conditions and high winds, it quickly spread and was not brought under control until early January. The explora Patagonia Hotel Salto Chico - which I have long recommended - was in an area that burned, but fortunately, the lodge was spared. Most of the park reopened in January, but the damage to grasslands and old-growth forest was considerable.

Located on the eastern border of the park, the new Tierra Patagonia Hotel & Spa was unaffected by the conflagration. After the long drive from Punta Arenas, I was initially taken aback by its external appearance - the design recalls an “old fossil, a prehistoric animal beached on the lakeshore, like those drawn by Charles Darwin,” according to architect Cazu Zegers - but inside, it proved to be an utterly remarkable building dominated by a grand sweep of immense floor-to-ceiling windows. Once I could drag my gaze from the extraordinary view across Lago Sarmiento to the breathtaking granite monoliths of the Cordillera del Paine, I became increasingly impressed by my surroundings.

Constructed almost entirely from the lovely native lenga wood, the great room seamlessly unites a sitting area containing a circular fireplace with a bar and a dining space. The interplay of a wood ceiling, walls constructed from boards of differing lengths, and wood floorboards laid at an angle give the design a remarkable feeling of energy and flow. The 40 guest rooms (including three duplex suites) display the same aesthetic and are appointed with simple but handsome furniture that imparts a Shaker-like elegance to their interiors. Well-lit baths come with separate showers and soaking tubs. (Wi-Fi is available in the library.)

On arrival, we met with a guide to plan our program of activities. We began with a wonderful four-hour trek called the “Condoreras,” which, as well as panoramic views of the extraordinary landscape, provides the opportunity to see huge Andean condors, with their 10-foot wingspans. For the less energetic, the two-hour “Hidden Backyard” hike wanders though an area close to the lodge where you are likely to spot llama-like guanacos, foxes and ostrich-like rhea. Within the hotel, the Uma Spa features an indoor swimming pool with jets and cascades, an outdoor Jacuzzi, a sauna and a steam bath.

In the property’s dining area, seating options include larger tables to sustain the camaraderie of group excursions. During our stay, it seemed that the kitchen was still getting up to speed — we had overcooked meat one night — but many dishes were excellent, and we particularly enjoyed succulent, firm-fleshed reineta fish served with shrimp on a bed of lentils. The service was excellent, as it was everywhere in the hotel.

Tierra Patagonia Hotel & Spa 96 Double Room, $1,950 per person for a three-night minimum stay; rates include all meals, daily excursions, house drinks and wines, and the use of the spa facilities (massages and treatments extra). Suite, $2,600. Ruta 9 at Ruta Y156, Torres del Paine. Tel. (800) 829-5325 or (56) 2-361-7000.

Though it is just an hour or so away from Tierra Patagonia, the thriving town of Puerto Natales is another world. A bustling port of 20,000 people, it is home to a large fishing fleet. Just short of the town, our driver pulled off the main road, mistakenly, I thought, as it looked as though we were headed to an old industrial area. The Singular Patagonia opened last November and is surrounded by early 20th-century buildings that once comprised a giant meatpacking and refrigeration plant, from which lamb was shipped all over the world. Once of critical importance to Chile’s economy, the site was named a National Historic Landmark in 1996.

Carefully using the viable structures—most notably a huge brick warehouse—the new hotel also saved much of the industrial equipment. Fifty-seven guest quarters were added in a historically appropriate style. The property is constructed on a hillside, so on arrival, we were escorted to a small funicular that took us down to reception. The lobby retains the original brick walls, but a new floor has been suspended above the old.

The most striking feature of our room was an 18-foot-wide glass wall with a compelling view of the sea and distant snowy peaks. Sinking into a chair, I sat gazing out across the fjord, watching the seabirds and the racing clouds. Decorated in shades of gray, our lodgings proved eminently comfortable and were appointed with traditional furniture and outsize black-and-white photographs from the plant’s industrial heyday. A large dressing room led to an equally spacious bath with a separate shower and a freestanding tub. (Rooms and suites come with or without television, but all provide Wi-Fi.)

The Singular’s atmospheric restaurant, bar and lounge are dramatically situated on two levels in a converted warehouse. The ground-level bar and lounge, filled with overstuffed couches and chairs, proved to be a congenial spot to gather after the day’s activities. In the dining room, the exceptional food employs Chilean produce wherever possible. Standouts included king crab ceviche, Patagonia lamb loin chops, and roasted salmon on a bed of just-tender lentils.

The variety of excursions is impressive. We especially enjoyed forays aboard one of the hotel’s two speedboats to see nearby glaciers. A memorable bird-watching tour took us to a wetlands area where, perched on a hilltop, we were able to watch black-faced ibis, white-tufted grebe and distinctive black-necked swans. We were accompanied by Pedro, a guide whose infectious love of the land and its creatures added enormously to the pleasure of our stay. Returning to the hotel, we retreated to the spa with its indoor/outdoor pool for a soothing massage.

My one caveat about The Singular is that, owing to the complexity of the layout, there seemed to be a degree of unnecessary confusion at times, a situation not helped by the manager, a pleasant if diffident young woman, who appeared reluctant to intervene. That said, The Singular offers a fascinating glimpse of Patagonia’s history, and we would not have wanted to miss it.

The Singular Patagonia Singular Room, $580 per person, per night, all meals included, November-March peak season. Singular Suite, $865. Puerto Bories s/n. Tel. (56) 61-722-030.

Just west of Santiago lies a rich agricultural region known as the Central Valley, a delightful area of fields, orchards and vineyards blessed by a benign climate. This is the heart of Chile’s burgeoning wine industry. Among the names you will find on Chilean wine labels are the Aconcagua, Maipo, Cachapoal and Colchagua valleys. Lapostolle is set in the Colchagua Valley and is the realized dream of Alexandra Marnier Lapostolle, a scion of the family that created the French liqueur Grand Marnier. Today, Lapostolle produces a range of wines, preeminent among which is Clos Apalta, a red blend of Carmenère (78 percent), Cabernet Sauvignon (19 percent) and Petit Verdot (3 percent). In 2008, Wine Spectator named the 2005 Clos Apalta its wine of the year.

The Lapostolle Residence is set above the winery and comprises a Main House, plus four sumptuous casitas. The latter have cream-colored walls, wood floors, accents of leather and colored silk, and woodburning fires. The baths are clad in stone tile and are equipped with soaking tubs and separate showers. The Main House is a study in contemporary elegance, with a spacious living room/library that leads out to a lovely terrace where meals are taken, weather permitting. The food is superb, and we savored dishes such as grilled shrimp with barley risotto, and filet of beef in a red-wine reduction. Different Lapostolle wines are served with each course, and we especially admired the Casa Sauvignon Blanc and the Cuvée Alexandre Pinot Noir. Activities include horseback riding and bicycling, plus tours of neighboring wineries such as Montes and Neyen.

The Lapostolle Residence is a place of genuine sophistication and gracious hospitality. It should feature on the itinerary of anyone with an interest in wine, and, given its relative proximity to Santiago’s airport, it provides a perfect end to a Chilean journey.

Lapostolle Residence 97 Casita, $500 per person, per night; rates include all meals, a private tour and tasting at Clos Apalta winery, and visits to other wineries nearby. Km 4, Camino Apalta, Colchagua Valley, Santa Cruz. Tel. (56) 72-953-360.

Illustrations ©Melissa Colson