The Classic Pubs of Oxford, England

Radcliffe Camera, Oxford. Copyright ajagendorf25.

Public houses play a very important role in the intellectual life of this romantic university town. Since most of Oxford University’s 38 colleges are off-limits to the public during term time, the pubs serve as friendly, egalitarian spaces where visitors, townsfolk, students and dons all can enjoy a pint of bitter in creaky but convivial quarters. And much like the city itself, they are filled with ghosts and stories. Mr. Harper's recommended lodging in Oxford is the [Old Bank Hotel][1]. While most of these establishments serve standard pub fare (fish and chips, sandwiches, salads) with varying degrees of success, they’re all quite serious about their beer. The profusion of labels on the taps can be confusing at first, but the basic styles are relatively straightforward:

Bitters — Called “pale ales” in the United States, bitters (as their name implies) lean heavily on the sharp, citrusy flavors of hops. Popular pub bitters include Boddingtons, John Smith’s and Tetley’s.

Ales — These dark amber beers have less acidic notes and favor the nuttier and toffee-like accents of malt. Newcastle Brown Ale is probably the best-known, followed by Manns Brown Ale and Samuel Smith’s.

Lagers — Over the last 50 years, these pale, crisp beers have taken over the world, for better or worse. Most lagers offered by pubs are foreign (Stella Artois, Foster’s), but on a warm afternoon you could also try a Tennent’s.

Ciders — True ciders are made from fermented apples and very little else. Tangy and treacly, they are often ordered in half-pint glasses, as they can be deceptively strong. Ask to see what's on tap — fizzy commercial favorites Woodpecker and Strongbow are to be avoided.

Porters — Very similar to stouts (the most famous of which is Guinness), these are the heaviest of the group, brewed with dark, approaching black, malts and are perfect with a light ploughman’s lunch. These can have notes of vanilla or even bourbon from their cask aging. Try a Fuller’s. No visit to Oxford is complete without a trip to one of these classic pubs, all of which are now mercifully smoke-free:

The Old Tom (107 St. Aldate’s, Tel. 44-01865-243034‎)

The Old Tom sits across from one of the most prestigious colleges in Oxford, Christ Church (the home of Lewis Carroll), and has a scholarly, almost subdued atmosphere, though it can get crowded with foot traffic on the weekends. Its nearby namesake, Great Tom bell tower, sits over the entrance to Christ Church and sounds 101 times every evening at 9:05 (101 for the original number of scholars here, and five past nine for their curfew). The pub is also well-known for its wide array of Irish whiskies.

The Bear Inn (6 Alfred Street, Tel. 44-01865-728164)

One of the oldest taverns in Oxford (it dates to 1242), this cozy nook just north of Christ Church College is distinguished by the thousands of snipped and labeled club ties framed on its walls. Alas, the longstanding house offer of a free pint in exchange for a tie has been revoked. This relatively quiet, out-of-the-way spot is also favored by students of nearby Corpus Christi College.

The Eagle and Child (49 St. Giles, Tel. 44-01865-302925‎)

The Eagle and Child is perhaps the most renowned pub in Oxford, as for 20 years it was the local of choice for the Inklings, a group of local writers including J.R.R. Tolkien and C.S. Lewis. They gathered here every Tuesday morning for a tipple and a chat, and their spirits are commemorated with photographs and curios in the pleasant Rabbit Room. This patrician gathering place sits prominently on busy St. Giles Street.

Kings Arms (40 Holywell Street, Tel. 44-01865-242369)‎

This airy, welcoming pub is a local institution and is probably the best spot to enjoy the company of Oxonians in their element. The expansive main room (note the photo of the Queen Mum enjoying a pint) is flanked by a few smaller nooks and a handful of outdoor tables. It also benefits from a prime location; just down Broad Street from the Radcliffe Camera and the Bodleian Library, and around the corner from Blackwell, Oxford’s best bookshop.

Turf Tavern (4 Bath Place, Tel. 44-01865-243235)

The Turf Tavern is a very old, extremely well-hidden spot that rests on the remnants of the old city walls, and its outdoor seating area is a wonderful secret. It lies wedged on a narrow alleyway that runs between Holywell Street and New College Lane (near the famous Bridge of Sighs), and finding it can be quite challenging, especially at night.

The White Hart (Wytham, Tel. 44-01865-244372)

This handsome 16th-century public house, set in the nearby village of Wytham, has long been a favorite destination for those taking a Sunday constitutional in the country. The White Hart is a short drive outside of Oxford’s city center, and is an excellent option for visitors seeking market-fresh cuisine amid pastoral surroundings (don’t be surprised to see students dining here with their visiting parents).