The Dominican Republic's Peerless Water Holes

Golf is treated as just another amenity on most Caribbean islands. It's something to do between the last scuba dive and the first rum punch; it’s seldom the primary focus of a vacation. The gnarly links of the British Isles come to mind before sugar-sand beaches backed by cerulean waters. And, in general, Caribbean courses are neither well-designed nor very well-conditioned.

Fortunately, there is an exception to virtually every rule, and the Dominican Republic provides one. The country boasts 26 golf courses, the best being at a trio of resorts: Puntacana and Cap Cana on the easternmost tip of the country, and Casa de Campo, about 50 miles due west on the southern coast. Together, they have seven 18-hole courses and two nine-hole layouts, designed by an impressive roster of architects that includes Pete Dye and his son P.B., both of whom live part of the year in the Dominican Republic; as well as Tom Fazio and Jack Nicklaus.

Like many people, I relish courses that are routed along the ocean. I enjoy the natural drama of the setting and the sound of waves crashing against rocks as I stand over a shot. I also marvel at the bird and marine life — whether a tern holding itself steady in a breeze as it scans the water for baitfish, or a seal lolling on its back in the waves, squinting at the sun. And I delight in the competitive challenge of winds gusting off the sea.

Among the 36 holes on the Corales and La Cana courses at Puntacana, laid out by Fazio and P.B. Dye, respectively, nine hug the water. Over at Cap Cana, the Nicklaus Punta Espada track also has nine holes on the ocean. Then, of course, there is the fabled Teeth of the Dog course at Casa de Campo, laid out by Hall of Famer Pete Dye. Seven holes run along the coast here, spray flying high into the air as waves break on rocks bordering the tees and greens. That’s a total of 25 water holes on four courses, a concentration that, to my knowledge, is not rivaled anywhere else in the world. And even when water is not actually close by, it is most certainly in view — for example, on the Dye Fore course at Casa de Campo, another Pete Dye creation, where holes play down a verdant, sweeping hillside to the Caribbean.

The best of all the courses in the Dominican Republic is the Teeth of the Dog. (The name comes from the jagged coral — dientes del perro — on which workers labored to construct the fairways, tees and greens.) It is one of Pete Dye’s career triumphs, and a fixture on every list of the world’s Top 100 layouts. Wind whistled across the track during my round, rattling the fronds of the towering coconut palms that rise along so many of the holes. Each hole has merit, but I have particular affection for a four-hole stretch on the front side, Nos. 5-8, that snakes along the Caribbean. In addition, Nos. 15, 16 and 17 on the back are as scenic as any holes a golfer will find at Cypress Point or Pebble Beach.

In addition to building himself a home, Dye has constructed three other 18-holers at Casa de Campo: Dye Fore, The Links and La Romana. None has water holes like the Teeth of the Dog, but they are nonetheless well-routed tracks that give this resort an embarrassment of golfing riches.

Puntacana is not nearly so well-endowed, but the Corales course created by Tom Fazio is fast becoming a Caribbean favorite, celebrated as much for its appearance — a vibrant tangle of hibiscus and bougainvillea—as for its design. And P.B. Dye’s La Cana track, with a new nine-holer he designed dubbed “Hacienda,” makes the resort a must-visit. It also helps that the Nicklaus Punta Espada course is only a 20-minute drive away. Opened in 2006, it has already hosted a number of professional tournaments and earned deservedly high rankings.

In short, not only is golf much more than an amenity in the Dominican Republic, it is arguably the best reason to visit.