The Reinvention of Rancho Valencia

The coast of southern California offers a combination of scenic splendor and agreeable climate found in only a handful of places around the globe. It doesn’t take much to lure me back to this Riviera-like landscape, and the reopening of one of my favorite resorts provided a welcome excuse for a visit.

In early 2012, Rancho Valencia closed for a $30 million overhaul. Prior to the renovation, reports that it felt dated had been trickling in, and I was eager to see whether the 10 months of work, undertaken by the resort's new owners, had been time and money well-spent. A grand Florida ficus tree heralds the main building, home to the restaurant, bar and small check-in lounge. There, a Personal Concierge helped us complete the formalities.

Our villa, containing Suites #132 and #133, had a secluded location at the far end of a paved footpath. (Suites #134-#141 have similarly desirable settings but, in general, it is important to choose with care. Suites #148-#153 have the least privacy.) The Spanish-style interior of our suite came with wrought-iron chandeliers hanging from a vaulted ceiling, a cozy sunken living room and a gas fireplace. A couple of steps up, a wood-framed king bed stood next to a hand-tooled leather chair. Blue-and-white Moorish-inspired tiles enlivened the bath, equipped with a steam shower and soaking tub. Our terrace, with a Jacuzzi and deeply cushioned furnishings, invited lazy afternoons with a glass of wine and a novel.

Overall, our renovated accommodations were lovely, but a few things got on my nerves: The bath lacked conveniently placed hooks, for example, and despite the chandelier over the sinks, the lighting was barely adequate. Inexplicably, I couldn’t find any body cream among the Amala bath products. Most annoying, I could occasionally hear my neighbors’ television through our connecting door.

Nevertheless, we enjoyed our stay immensely. Each morning, we awoke to a carafe of freshly squeezed orange juice waiting outside our door. Service at breakfast ranged from efficient to surprisingly clumsy, but the food was reliably delicious. Of course, the beautiful farm-to-table Veladora restaurant really showed its mettle at dinner. I especially enjoyed the briny “Breath of the Sea” appetizer, a jewel-like composition of sea urchin, prawns, oysters, clams, cucumber and seaweed in a cool dashi broth, and the veal breast, served with a light soubise and smoked carrots. Next door, the lively Pony Room bar draws a chic local crowd with its well-made cocktails, such as a perfectly bittersweet Martinez.

We also took advantage of the upgraded 2.5-acre spa, comprising a fitness center, yoga pavilion, dramatic central lounge and 10 treatment rooms arrayed around hushed garden courtyards. Fireplaces seemed to be everywhere, even in my treatment room, which also had a soaking tub on its patio. It felt remarkably indulgent to bask in a warm, myrrh-infused bath with cool, soft drizzle speckling my face. And a veritable laundry load of hot towels kept me feeling warm and relaxed during my body and scalp massages. I left feeling thoroughly renewed and at peace.

AT A GLANCE

LIKE: Huge accommodations; superb cuisine; pristine tennis courts; innumerable fireplaces.

DISLIKE: Occasional noise from neighbors.

GOOD TO KNOW: The spa is world-class: Book treatments early.

RANCHO VALENCIA, Rating 95. Agave Suite, $675; Olive Grove Suite, $875. 5921 Valencia Circle, Rancho Santa Fe. Tel. (858) 756-1123.