The Sanchaya, Bintan Island

Less than two hours after we’d landed at Changi Airport, we were sitting on a veranda overlooking a white-sand beach and the ocean.

Travelers to Asia find themselves in Singapore for many reasons. The Southeast Asian city-state is one of the world’s most important financial and business capitals; it has an efficient and well-served airport; it also offers superb food and a distinctive culture.

On my most recent trip, however, I decided to take a preliminary break beside the sea to recover from the long flight from North America. The Sanchaya hotel, a sumptuous new property on Indonesia’s Bintan Island, is just a 45-minute ride by comfortable high-speed ferry from Singapore. So less than two hours after we’d landed at Changi Airport, we were sitting on a veranda overlooking landscaped grounds, a white-sand beach and the ocean.

More than three times larger in area than Singapore, Bintan Island has only 118,000 inhabitants. This statistic explains why the island is currently being developed as a weekend and second-home getaway for Singaporeans in search of space and tranquility, as well as a beach resort for foreign visitors.

When I first heard about the 21-villa, nine-suite Sanchaya, it sounded intriguing, but I hesitated, wondering about the complications of reserving ferry tickets and obtaining the necessary Indonesian visa. Happily, the hotel tends efficiently to all of these arrangements.

As soon as we caught our first glimpse of the handsome main manor house, I knew we’d made a good choice.

As soon as we caught our first glimpse of the handsome main manor house — a colonial building that once sheltered government officials and army officers in Singapore — I knew we’d made a good choice. The general manager, Murlidhar Rao, a charming and ebullient host, welcomed us to his 30-acre tropical seaside estate. He then showed us around the magnificently decorated public rooms and explained that sanchaya means “collection” in Sanskrit, a reference to the architecture and decoration of the villas, which were inspired by a variety of indigenous idioms. This eclectic approach is reflected in Thai-style pitched roofs, Burmese window frames, Laotian temple ornaments and Khmer glazed pottery jars. Our exceptionally comfortable and attractive suite featured teak floors worked in a herringbone pattern, framed antique maps, a grass-cloth sofa, black rattan armchairs, a marble-topped table, a Bang & Olufsen entertainment center and a wine fridge.

After a dip in the 150-foot infinity pool, I indulged in a signature Sanchaya spa treatment, which involved deep tissue massage and warm stone therapy. Feeling relaxed and reinvigorated, with memories of our 20-hour airborne confinement swiftly receding, we headed to the bar. This is decorated like a Victorian geographical society clubroom, with vintage prints, compasses and antique telescopes. Later, we opted to dine in the Tasanee Grill, where we enjoyed a delicious Thai meal of spring rolls, green papaya salad and curried prawns. The next morning, we were greeted at breakfast in The Dining Room, the hotel’s main restaurant, by the jamu gendong (herbal drinks) server, who arrived tableside with a selection of these fruit, vegetable and spice concoctions that the Indonesians like to begin their day. My turmeric and tamarind shot was certainly a potent eye-opener.

The Sanchaya is owned by Natalya Pavchinskaya, a Russian businesswoman, and eventually will be part of a much larger development project on the northern coast of Bintan Island that will include private houses, additional hotels, a golf course and an international airport. During a long and peaceful walk along the beach, I reflected that Bintan today is rather like Southeast Asia in the early ’80s, before the region emerged as a popular tourist destination. For now, The Sanchaya is a truly blissful place in which to relax and to enjoy the soft, warm breezes wafting off the South China Sea.

AT A GLANCE

LIKE: Exceptionally beautiful setting in a former coconut plantation overlooking the South China Sea.

DISLIKE: The charge for the transfer from the ferry terminal, a service that should be complimentary, given the hefty room rates.

GOOD TO KNOW: The best time to visit Bintan is from March to July; avoid the monsoon season from mid-December to mid-February. Nearby Ria Bintan Golf Club is one of the best in Southeast Asia.

The Sanchaya 95 The Great House Junior Suite Sea View, $870; One-Bedroom Villa Sea View, $1,475. Jalan Gurindam Duabelas, Plot 5 Lagoi Bay, P. Bintan, Kep. Riau. Tel. (62) 770-692200.