A Stylish Long Island Refuge: Topping Rose House

As summer approaches, the glossy magazines turn their attention to the Hamptons, the string of towns along the South Fork of Long Island populated by old money, new money, just-minted money and celebrity of varying degrees. Personally, I prefer summering on peaceful shores with only the occasional cry of a gull and the breaking of the waves to disturb my absorption in the beach book of the moment. Yet I always find myself quite happy to be back.

At their best, the Hamptons still exemplify the classic American seaside summer.

True, the Hamptons have changed greatly over the years — many of the old potato farms have been converted into tracts of McMansions; the traffic gets ever worse — yet it’s a bit like people sighing, “Venice! You should have seen it 30 years ago.” The beaches rank among the most beautiful in the world, and at their best, the Hamptons still exemplify the classic American seaside summer.

Upscale properties tend to be concentrated in East Hampton. However, the new Topping Rose House, which opened in mid-2013, is located in nearby Bridgehampton. Less frenetic than its sister towns, Bridgehampton is a pretty village with all of the “Our Town” requisites: a main street studded with restaurants; galleries; white-steepled churches; a town library; and a wonderful old ice cream parlor.

The property is located at the east end of the main street, with its most prominent feature being the eye-catching white Greek Revival house built in 1842 for the family of Judge Abraham Topping Rose. During the renovation of the three-story structure, a small wing done in a style so similar that it is almost unnoticeable was added. Beyond a restored barn stand the four “cottages.” Given the designation, one might assume them to be as traditional as the main house. They could not be more different. I was quite shocked at first. Then I recalled all the modern houses that have been built in the Hamptons over the years and I realized that the juxtaposition of traditional and contemporary is, in fact, characteristic of the area. It’s not all gray shingles and white trim.

Seven of the inn’s 22 rooms are in the main house. These offer classic interiors with (mostly decorative) fireplaces and the convenience of being in the same building as the restaurant. We opted for one of the cottages, which have the advantages of larger baths and outdoor space. Right away, I loved the expansive floor-to-ceiling windows and the sliding doors that opened to our own little yard. With its two chairs, a circular windowside table made a nice spot to nibble on Tate’s chocolate chip cookies, a local product. The Wi-Fi proved speedy; an iPad is provided in each room. The bath came with dual vanities, a tub, a walk-in shower and big, fluffy bath sheets.

Dinner and breakfast were just a short stroll away in the main house. With a central spray of seasonal flowers, the dining room is a lovely, soothing space with sedate décor, red banquettes and extremely comfortable updated Windsor chairs. The menu, created by chef Kyle Koenig — who worked under star chef Tom Colicchio as part of the team that opened the inn — emphasizes farm-to-table cooking and takes full advantage of local ingredients, including those from the small farm next door.

I can’t think of the last time — if ever — I felt the need to comment on a dinner bread basket.

We could not have enjoyed the meal more. An artful starter of squid-ink linguine with Fresno chilies, mussels and sea urchin roe was richly redolent of the sea. Even better was a main course of black sea bass surrounded by sautéed sunchokes and king oyster mushrooms, a combination of tastes and textures united by a smooth Bordelaise sauce. I can’t think of the last time — if ever — I felt the need to comment on a dinner bread basket, but I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the superb potato rolls made by pastry chef Cassandra Shupp. Another tip of the Harper toque goes to Shupp for her dessert of plump little brioche doughnuts with rosemary sugar, pineapple cream and almond butter. (Breakfast features more such delights, including buttermilk biscuits that would make Paula Deen weep.)

Active outdoor pursuits are readily available. Bicycles are on hand, and complimentary shuttles in the guise of Lexus SUVs can whisk you off to one of the local beaches. The able front desk staff, as accommodating and pleasant as everyone else we encountered during our stay, can arrange for fishing, golf, tennis, horseback riding and water sports. I also recommend visits to two nearby wineries, Wölffer Estate and Channing Daughters. After a day in the sun, you might want a facial or a massage, which feature in the treatment programs at the small but alluring spa.

If all of that seems too much, you can lounge by the pool, set off behind a low hedge. My only reservation about the pool concerns its location on the side of the property that borders Montauk Highway. “Highway” is too grand a term for what is no more than a two-lane road, but it is the main artery that runs through the Hamptons and can become congested at times. The upside of the road is that it leads to the charming old whaling town of Sag Harbor, with its many restaurants, one-off shops and the excellent Bay Street Theater. You can also take a ferry from Sag Harbor to Shelter Island, then another to the North Fork and its many wineries, a tour of which can make for an exceptionally pleasant day.

Topping Rose House proved a delightful getaway from the hubbub of Manhattan. How nice it was to stroll a sunny beach and dip into the refreshingly brisk Atlantic, knowing that a hot shower and a fine meal awaited us back at the inn.

AT A GLANCE

LIKE: The full complement of services that sets the inn apart from others in the Hamptons.

DISLIKE: The lack of window screens in the cottages.

GOOD TO KNOW: Bridgehampton dining alternatives include Pierre’s for classic French, and Bobby Van’s Steakhouse.

Topping Rose House 93 House King Guestroom, $950; Cottage King Guestroom, $1,250. One Bridgehampton — Sag Harbor Turnpike, Bridgehampton, New York. Tel. (631) 537-0870.