Lying about 75 miles north of Venice, the Dolomites comprise an astonishing range of jagged limestone peaks. The area’s main town, Cortina d’Ampezzo, is a renowned ski resort, but the most spectacular part of the Dolomites is arguably the Alta Badia, immediately to the west. This unspoiled region is dotted with charming alpine villages such as Corvara and San Cassiano. Although territorially part of Italy, the Dolomites still possess a strongly independent streak, one that is reflected in the distinctive gastronomy — far more German than it is Italian. Menus feature canederli (bread dumplings), spätzle (egg noodles) and gulasch (a stew of beef, venison or wild boar). The most celebrated local product is Speck, a ham that is dry-cured by salt, smoke and fresh air. Numerous high-altitude footpaths traverse the region.
Recommendations for the Dolomites
The improbable 10,000-foot spires of the Sassolungo mountains provide an unforgettable backdrop.
- Some of the region’s best wines are made by Alois Lageder, run by a fifth generation of winemakers. For tastings and purchases, visit the Weinschenke Vineria Paradeis in the village of Magrè. I particularly enjoyed the refined Pinot Bianco Dolomiti and Pinot Grigio Dolomiti. Piazza S. Geltrude 10.
- One restaurant not to miss is zur Rose in San Michele, seven miles southwest of Bolzano, where chef Herbert Hintner has presided over a distinguished kitchen since 1985. Signature dishes include mint risotto with pike perch; veal kidneys with potatoes and mustard sauce; and sweet dumplings with pears stewed in elderberry wine. Via Josef Innerhofer 2, Tel. 0471-662-249.
- A favorite hike traverses the Alpe di Siusi. Just 35 minutes’ drive northeast of Bolzano, capital of Alto Adige/Südtirol, the Alpe di Siusi is Europe’s largest high-alpine meadow. It measures about seven miles by three and separates two of the region’s principal skiing valleys. The improbable 10,000-foot spires of the Sassolungo mountains, which resemble something straight out of Tolkien, provide an unforgettable backdrop.
- The Dolomites are spectacular from the ground, but they are even more dramatic from the air. If helicopters do not alarm you, I cannot recommend a scenic flight too highly. And if you are feeling intrepid, the excellent San Cassiano ski school can arrange for you to be airlifted to the top of the 10,968-foot Marmolada, the region’s highest peak.