Where to Eat in Naples

The Neapolitans are fierce partisans of their cuisine, maintaining that they have the best coffee, best tomatoes and best pizza — just for starters.

Pastries and Pizza

Gran Caffè Gambrinus


Founded in 1850, this is the most beloved coffeehouse in the city. Order an espresso — invented in Naples — and then imitate the Neapolitans: Take the spoon from the cup and leave a trail of coffee on the rim to get your tongue acclimated.

Via Chiaia 1-2. Tel. (39) 081-417-582.

Sfogliatella Mary

This is the place for the city’s favorite pastry, sfogliatelle. Made with many layers, its fillings include almond paste, ricotta and candied lemon peel.

Via Toledo 66. Tel. (39) 081-402-218.

Tarallificio Leopoldo


I love the snack taralli,
little ring-shaped crackers. These can be sweet or savory and come with additions such as garlic, poppy seeds or a sugar glaze.

Via Foria 212. Tel. (39) 081-451-166.

Pizzeria Brandi

The classic Neapolitan pizza
must be made in accordance with strict rules established by a professional association. We went to Brandi, home of the classic Margherita pizza, first made for the Italian queen of the same name.

Salita Sant’Anna
di Palazzo 1-2. Tel. (39) 081-416-928.

This article appeared in the December 2014 print edition of Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report under the headline “Pastries and Pizza.”