I stayed in two hotels on the island. Both had their charms, but neither was up to Harper standards. The Bridgend Hotel is well-located in the center of the island and has 11 small lodgings and a dining room and bar with very good food.
The better option is the Port Charlotte Hotel, which is set by the sea. It features 10 rooms that are small but attractively decorated in a country house style with antiques and floral fabrics. Tasty fare is served in an appealing bar with a fireplace and an excellent selection of malts, and in a pleas-ant stone-walled dining room. Be sure to book a sea-facing room.
PORT CHARLOTTE HOTEL 83 Double, $280. Main Street, Port Charlotte, Isle of Islay. Tel. (44) 01496-850360.