Garden Route

The southern coast of South Africa is separated from the interior by a range of 5,000-foot mountains. To their north lies the arid and treeless region of the Karoo, while a lush strip along the Indian Ocean enjoys a mild, Mediterranean climate of occasional rainfall and abundant sunshine. There, the relatively mild water temperature also attracts hundreds of right whales, which, from June to September, can be seen swimming close to shore to calve.

Eastward from the Cape, the coastal zone is covered by a carpet of low evergreen shrubland known as fynbos, which shelters a huge variety of spectacular flowers. The most popular stretch of the Garden Route extends for about 125 miles, from Heidelberg to Tsitsikamma. The road is excellent, and it is quite possible to drive its entire length in a few hours. Most visitors, however, pause in one of the coastal towns, such as George, Knysna or Plettenberg Bay. These are tranquil, picturesque places with numerous excellent restaurants.

Editor Tips

Excellent Wineries

The mitigating waters of Walker Bay have helped to make the region west of Hermanus a significant wine area, with some of the country’s most notable producers. Heading my list is Hamilton Russell, which crafts one of my top two South African Pinot Noirs, as well as Chardonnays that are very similar to fine white Burgundies. I am also fond of the Pinotage it produces under its sister Southern Right label. Farther up the road, Bouchard Finlayson makes my other favorite Pinot Noir. Both wineries have tasting rooms that are well worth visiting.

Fantastic Whale Watching 

Every year from June through December (South Africa’s winter and spring), Walker Bay and the surrounding waters host hundreds of southern right whales, which come to mate and to calve. Easily seen from the shore, they provide a spectacle that draws visitors from the world over. Nearby Dyer Island and Geyser Rock are home to vast colonies of seals and penguins. These are favorite foods for the great white shark, which are present in such numbers that the strait between the islands has earned the name “Shark Alley.” Their presence is not dependent on the season, but the best time is from June to September. These impressive animals can be seen either from a boat or from a submerged cage. Excursions should be arranged by your hotel concierge, who will know the best and most reliable operators.

Bird Watching in a National Park

A 50-mile coastal strip, Garden Route National Park contains patches of rainforest that are home to dozens of species of birds, including the Knysna lourie, a spectacular bright-green bird with an orange hooked bill, a white crest and brilliant red on its wings.

Fine Hiking Routes

The most eye-catching segment of the Garden Route drive begins just east of Plettenberg Bay. Suddenly the landscape becomes extremely dramatic, with forests, rocky peaks, gorges, waterfalls and sheer cliffs plunging into the sea. Known as Tsitsikamma, this area was once a national park in its own right but in 2009 was incorporated into the larger Garden Route National Park. Here you will find one of the finest hiking routes in South Africa, the challenging five-day Otter Trail. There are shorter, more easily accessible routes. For example, the Pied Kingfisher Trail, which starts from the Ebb-and-Flow Rest Camp in the Wilderness section of the park, is about four and a half miles long, takes three to four hours and provides an utterly memorable day.

The World's Only Whale Crier

Hermanus has had the world’s only whale crier, who sounds his kelp horn when whales have been sighted. Before you go whale watching, be sure to visit the town’s fascinating Whale House Museum.