Kavala is an attractive provincial city in northeastern Greece and is the principal seaport of eastern Macedonia. It is dominated by a hilltop Byzantine castle, below which is the extraordinary Imaret (“inn” or “hospice” in Turkish). This was built by Mohamed Ali Pasha, who founded the Egyptian royal dynasty that ended with the overthrow of King Farouk in 1952. In Kavala, there are still many reminders of the centuries of Turkish rule, and the international border lies just two hours’ drive to the east.