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in Umbria

Destination Information

Umbria, a landlocked region in central Italy, is bordered by Tuscany, the Marche and Lazio. It is green, hilly and noted for olive oil, black truffles and wines, including the white Orvieto. Its capital, Perugia, is a notable artistic center. There, Perugino, tutor of Raphael, decorated a room in the Collegio del Cambio with an exquisite series of frescoes. Nearby Assisi is the birthplace of St. Francis. He is buried in the famous basilica, begun immediately after his canonization in 1228, which contains astonishing frescoes by Giotto. Spoleto is a charming Umbrian city that annually hosts the Festival dei Due Mondi, a three-week summer schedule of music, theater and dance founded by Gian Carlo Menotti in 1958.

Editor Tips

Norcia Restored

In 2016, the region around Amatrice (including Norcia) suffered significant damage from an earthquake. Scaffolding still can be found, but much of the rebuilding is finished, the gourmet shops of Norcia have reopened and I wouldn’t hesitate to return.

Brunello Cucinelli's World of Cashmere

I love the sumptuous knitwear created by Brunello Cucinelli (Piazza Carlo Alberto Dalla Chiesa 6), who obtains the finest cashmere in the world and turns it into sweaters, scarves and other accessories of heirloom quality. His ateliers and factory outlet are in Solomeo, a nearly abandoned town that Cucinelli has meticulously refurbished since he set up shop in 1985.

Umbria's Gourmet Restaurant

I had a memorable dinner near Orvieto at Michelin two-star Casa Vissani (S.S. 448 Todi. Tel. 0744-950-206), on the shore of Lake Corbara. In touristy Assisi, it’s not easy to find a quality, reasonably priced spot for lunch, which is why I appreciated Pallotta (Vicolo della Volta Pinta 3, Assisi. Tel. 075-812-649). It’s no secret (reservations are essential), but the food is delicious.

Montefalco's Stunning Views

Forty minutes from Assisi, Montefalco is surrounded by impressive 14th-century stone ramparts, and the top of its Torre Comunale affords an extraordinary panoramic view of virtually the whole of Umbria. We had a delightful lunch in town on the sunny terrace of Coccorone (Largo Tempestivi 11. Tel. 0742-379-535).