The easiest connection to Banff is through Calgary, a vibrant city of more than a million, set along the Bow River where the prairie meets the low foothills of the Rockies. The main range can be seen about 50 miles to the west. The city celebrates its heritage every July with its best-known visitor event, the Calgary Stampede, and not everyone puts away the cowboy boots and hats when the party’s over. Although gas and oil still drive the economy and Alberta beef is on every menu, the city has a thriving music and arts community, galleries and museums — notably the Glenbow Museum of art and history — attractive parks, and along the lively Stephen Avenue pedestrian mall, scores of boutiques and restaurants that bump up against glittering high-rises.