Travelers to Belgium tend to focus on Brussels, the capital, and Bruges, a canal-laced jewel box of medieval architecture. Many people pass by delightful Ghent, located between them, where I based myself on my most recent trip to the country. My European trips have been increasingly focused on these quieter places, which haven’t been disrupted or overwhelmed by tourism.
This trip is best undertaken in spring or fall, but even winter can be quite fun, since all three cities have more than their share of fine museums and cozy beer bars.
If this itinerary has too many hotel changes for your taste, you could base yourself entirely in Ghent and visit Bruges and Brussels on day trips. Each is just half an hour away by train.
Our itineraries are for your inspiration. Please contact a travel advisor to customize this itinerary to fit your needs.
Fly into Brussels, and check into the Hotel Amigo, a historic 173-room property with contemporary décor close to the Grand-Place. Surrounded by ornate guildhouses, this square is the magnificent centerpiece of the city.
After you drop off your luggage, start exploring the old center. Enjoy the atmosphere of the Grand-Place, immerse yourself in iconic Surrealist masterworks at the Magritte Museum and at sunset, take in the view from the northwest end of the Mont des Arts, opposite the museum.
Continue exploring Brussels today, starting with the Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium, which has one of the finest art collections in the world, with masterpieces ranging from triptychs by Hieronymus Bosch to “The Death of Marat,” by Jacques-Louis David.
In the afternoon, perhaps enjoy some shopping along fashionable Rue Antoine Dansaert, followed by a fine Belgian beer in an atmospheric pub such as Au Bon Vieux Temps, which has an extraordinary Gothic interior, or the lively A l’Imaige Nostre-Dame, with wood beams and stained-glass windows.
Otherwise, after breakfast, take the train to Ghent. Check into either the five-room B & B Hôtel Verhaegen, a relaxed but elegant bed-and-breakfast in a magnificently restored 18th-century mansion, or the new 37-room 1898 The Post hotel, inside a portion of the city’s old main post office. The former has fewer amenities but friendlier service, and both have ideal central locations.
Make your first stop St. Bavo’s Cathedral to see “The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb,” by Hubert and Jan van Eyck, a 12-panel 15th-century altarpiece that is one of the world’s artistic treasures.
Stylish new 37-room property housed within the upper floors of the city’s former post office, a neo-Gothic stone structure with two stone towers flanking a central gable.
Romantic and picturesque bed-and-breakfast set within a magnificently restored 18th-century mansion with only five guest rooms.
Take another full day to explore Ghent, perhaps visiting the fascinating MIAT, a museum housed in an old textile mill and devoted to the city’s industrial history; the superb MSK (Museum of Fine Arts Ghent); or S.M.A.K., the city’s contemporary-art museum, which features works by Joseph Beuys and Luc Tuymans, among others.
Also leave time to stroll around the center. Ghent is a brilliant city for shoppers who love discovering small, one-of-a-kind boutiques selling clothing by local designers, Belgian-made linen, porcelain and antiques.
Take the train northwest to Bruges, a sensationally beautiful (but increasingly overcrowded) medieval city of gabled brick houses, spectacular churches and café-lined squares. Bruges is ideal for strolling or cycling, and tour boats cruise the city’s network of picturesque canals.
Check into the Hotel De Tuilerieën, a 45-room hotel in a restored 15th-century residence along the picturesque Den Dijver canal; The Pand Hotel, a 26-room family-owned spot in an 18th-century mansion; or the three-suite Guesthouse Bonifacius, a romantic 16th-century bed-and-breakfast tucked down a small lane overlooking one of Bruges’ many canals.
In the afternoon, visit the Markt (the main square) and the ornate Gothic Hall in the Stadhuis on nearby Burg square.
Be sure to break for a snack of frites (French fries), which are thick and twice-fried. Unlike in the States, the accompaniment is mayonnaise, not ketchup. Although I would not recommend any of the tourist-trade restaurants abutting the Markt, you will find excellent frites at one of the frites vans (frietkot) on the Markt’s perimeter. For something a bit more refined, you can go to a frites specialist such as Chez Vincent.
Enjoy a full day in Bruges, perhaps taking a canal cruise and visiting some of the city’s excellent art galleries. I especially recommend the Groeningemuseum, notable for its collection of Flemish primitive paintings.
For a top-quality beer near the Markt, try De Garre, hidden in a narrow alley. On a side street a short walk away, ’t Brugs Beertje has a vast selection of some 300 beers.
Those with more time could take a day to make an excursion to the Flanders Field World War I cemetery and memorial.
Otherwise, take the train back to Brussels and check into the Stanhope Hotel, an elegant 125-room property housed within several 19th-century former townhouses, close to designer shops and the Royal Palace.
Enjoy a final afternoon, ideally consuming as much beer, chocolate and moules frites as possible. Or visit the Hortamuseum, dedicated to the work of art nouveau architect Victor Horta. Set in his former home and studio, it features an arresting five-floor staircase that culminates in an exquisite glass skylight.
After one more Belgian breakfast — waffles, of course — head to the airport and return home.
Contact a travel advisor to book your custom itinerary. Fill out the form or call (630) 734-4610.
Andrew Harper members have access to full travel-planning services through Andrew Harper Travel.
1 (800) 375-4685
Open M-F 8:30AM-5:30PM CT
