Many people experience the sensationally scenic island-dotted and fjord-indented coastline of Norway from a cruise ship. Aboard a small and luxurious vessel, such an itinerary is a joy. But this time, we elected for a two-week mix of land- and sea-based adventures. The trip allowed us to take our time and chat with the friendly locals — almost all of whom speak perfect English — as well as to get off the beaten track to view landscapes of unique and unmarred beauty.
I recommend traveling in June, when the countryside is bright with wildflowers and the waterfalls are still powerful torrents fed by snowmelt, but the high-season crowds of July and August have yet to arrive. After September, many museums and other attractions reduce their hours, and the transport systems switch to a less-frequent service.
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Arrive in Oslo, Norway’s attractive green capital, and check into the family-owned 155-room Hotel Continental, my longtime favorite in the city. If you have time after you arrive, I recommend shaking off the jet lag with a stroll in Vigeland Park, studded with the remarkable and massive sculptures of Gustav Vigeland.
Take two days to explore Oslo, visiting major sights like the Munch Museum and the National Museum, and on the Bygdøy peninsula, the fascinating Viking Ship Museum (with three well-preserved Viking longboats) and the outdoor Norwegian Folk Museum, which has assembled historic buildings from around Norway. Favorite restaurants include the Michelin three-star Maaemo (book well in advance), Kontrast and Arakataka.
After assembling a picnic at Mathallen, Oslo’s excellent indoor food market, board the Bergensbanen, a 310-mile rail line connecting Oslo and Bergen. The trip is spectacularly beautiful and one of the most popular rail journeys in Europe (book tickets as far in advance as possible). The journey takes seven hours, but such is the splendor of the scenery that the time goes by almost too fast.
Bergen is a very pretty city, but it lacks a true luxury hotel. The best choice is Det Hanseatiske Hotel, a 37-room hotel in several 18th-century wooden houses in Bryggen, a UNESCO-listed port district now used by pleasure craft and ferries (book a suite if possible). Have dinner at Lysverket.
Use the morning to explore Bergen. In the afternoon, take the 40-minute ferry to Os and make the short transfer to the 135-room Solstrand Hotel & Bad (“bad” means “bath,” referring to the hotel’s spa). Go for a stroll along the coastal footpath at the bottom of the property’s immaculately groomed garden.
Spend a full day at the Solstrand Hotel, making use of the spa, swimming, kayaking, walking along the coast or heading out with a driver to further explore the Bjørnefjorden.
Return to Bergen and connect to a Hurtigruten ship for an overnight cruise to Alesund. We sailed with the 822-passenger MS Trollfjord. Dinner in the luxury restaurant was surprisingly good, and breakfast the next day was excellent.
Arrive in Alesund in the morning and pick up a rental car. Head to the 27-room Hotel Union Øye, via ferries from Solavågen to Festøya and then Sæbø to Urke, a tranquil 2½-hour journey. (Direct boat transfers to the hotel are also offered by 62°NORD, a local travel agency that also arranges a variety of adventures, including a sea wildlife safari.) In the past, the gingerbread-trimmed Union Øye catered to guests such as Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle and Henrik Ibsen.
Spend the day exploring the area around the Hotel Union Øye, perhaps doing a helicopter flight, a boat ride in one of the nearby fjords, some hiking around the mountains or even some snorkeling in Lake Lyngstøyl, where the remains of several old farms can be seen just under the surface.
Drive south through the Norangsdal valley to the little town of Hellesylt, where you can catch the ferry to Geiranger, a magical hour-long journey along the Geirangerfjord, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Book this passage in advance, since it is extremely popular during the summer months. The trip takes in the Knivsflå waterfalls and also passes close to the Brudesløret (“Bridal Veil”) falls.
Disembark and follow scenic road 650 to the Skodje, home of the Storfjord Hotel, a 23-room property overlooking its namesake fjord and the Sunnmøre Alps.
Today I recommend doing a hike in the woodlands surrounding the Storfjord and visiting a nearby farm, where you can learn about local food traditions and taste samples. Fishing, kayaking and golf are also available.
From the Storfjord Hotel, it’s just 30 minutes back to Alesund by car. You could fly straight to Oslo if time is short, but if your schedule permits, consider staying a night or two in town. Alesund is a snug little port of art nouveau buildings, and it merits some exploration. My recommended property is the Hotel Brosundet, a 47-room former fish-packing plant (book a Junior Suite With Sea View). The Brosundet’s restaurant is excellent.
Fly from Alesund to Oslo and transfer to The Thief hotel, a modern building overlooking a canal but set back from the waterfront on Tjuvholmen (Thief Island). It used to be a honky-tonk district frequented by sailors, and later an execution ground for thieves. Now it has been completely rebuilt and is home to the Astrup Fearnley Museum, a collection of modern art housed in a striking building designed by Renzo Piano.
Take the rest of the day to visit the museum and further explore Oslo.
Have dinner in the hotel’s THIEF FOODBAR bistro or its gastronomic Fru K restaurant.
Depart Oslo and return home.
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