Provence remains one of France's most romantic destinations, especially outside the overcrowded summer months. The region offers something for everyone — the active traveler, the shopper, the history buff — but this itinerary will appeal especially to lovers of great food and wine.
This week in Provence introduces you to some of the region's best wineries and restaurants, in addition to historic treasures such as the immense Roman theater in Orange and the awe-inspiring Pont du Gard aqueduct.
First experience Provence's urban charms in atmospheric Avignon, then unwind with a stay in an unspoiled tract of countryside to the north. Finish in Lyon or the Beaujolais countryside, the gastronomic heart of France.
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Arrive in Avignon, and take some time to settle in at La Mirande in the heart of the city. Avignon once served as the home of the papacy, and its noble walls and remarkable architecture reflect this heritage. Take an afternoon walking tour with an expert guide, and take the evening at leisure.
Start the day with a cooking class at La Mirande. Some of the top chefs of the region share their culinary expertise with food enthusiasts here.
In the afternoon, tour and taste in the eastern reaches of the Rhône region, where the vineyards of the Luberon grow in idyllic natural surroundings.
Just below the village of Ménerbes, Yves Rousset-Rouard produces New World-style reds and whites in his state-of-the-art Domaine de la Citadelle. An added attraction is his surprisingly fascinating Corkscrew Museum.
Just down the road, outside the photogenic village of Bonnieux, Jean-Pierre Margan uses organic and occasionally even biodynamic farming techniques to produce the rich, rustic reds of Château la Canorgue.
Drive to the small but spectacular mountain range of Les Alpilles, where dramatic bleached limestone peaks emerge from a green girdle of almond trees, olive groves and vineyards.
Stop in Mouriès for a tour and tasting at Moulin Saint-Michel. The very best of Provençal olive oil comes from Les Alpilles, which was granted its own appellation for the golden liquid.
Continue to the vineyards of Les Baux de Provence, a region that was part of the larger Côteaux d’Aix en Provence until it earned its own appellation in 1995 for reds and rosés. Many wines produced here strongly reflect their terroir, the hallmark of France’s best wines. Enjoy tours and tastings in the spectacular underground cellars of Château Romanin and at the 15th-century Château d’Estoublon.
For lunch try either the legendary hotel/restaurant L’Oustau de Baumanière in Les Baux or the slightly simpler but no less excellent Cabro d’Or, both owned by master chef Jean-André Charial, president of the Vignerons of les Baux. He will be happy to spend a few minutes talking to you about the appellation.
In the afternoon, return to Avignon for some time at leisure, tour the fascinating half-ruined town of Les Baux itself or do more wine tastings at the 17th-century Mas de la Dame, painted by Van Gogh, and at Domaine des Terres Blanches, the first organic vineyard in Les Baux.
Get close to the rich nature and history of Provence with a gentle two-hour canoe trip down the Gard River. Float from the village of Collias to the Pont du Gard, a remarkable Roman aqueduct with three levels of stone arches. It remains an impressive example of engineering as well as a striking addition to the landscape.
Nearby Tavel produces what some consider to be the world’s best rosés. Do a tasting of these sunny wines before returning to Avignon for some time to explore on your own.
Check out of La Mirande and head north along the Rhône. Explore the Rasteau appellation, which has both a sweet wine and a Côtes du Rhône village.
In the afternoon, take a walking tour of the fascinating town of Vaison-la-Romaine, a former Roman city and now one of the largest archaeological sites in France. Some of the foundations of the cathedral have been exposed, showing how it rests on masonry scavenged from Roman buildings.
Check in at Hôtel Crillon le Brave, and take the rest of the afternoon and evening to relax.
Head west to the city of Orange, another major Roman center. This city retains its spectacular amphitheater, one of the largest ancient structures remaining in Europe.
After touring the theater and viewing Orange’s triumphal arch, continue to the famed wine village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, dominated by its ruined chateau. Just outside the village stands the crenellated Hostellerie du Château des Fines Roches, rich in medieval atmosphere. The food here is based on the best local products: olives, red mullet and — when in season — truffles. After lunch, have a tasting in the attached winery, Domaines Mousset, which produces red and white Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Visit the magnificent Château La Nerthe next door, the most elegant wine estate in the appellation. As early as the 18th century, La Nerthe was considered one of the best Châteauneuf crus, and Thomas Jefferson even bought a few cases. The château later fell on hard times, but director Alain Dugas restored it to its full prestige.
En route back to the hotel, stop in Beaumes-de-Venise for a tasting of its delectable Muscat.
Head north along the Rhône to the imposing hill of Hermitage for a tasting of its mighty syrah-based reds and its long-lived dry whites at leading négociant Michel Chapoutier in Tain.
After lunch across the street at Vineum, which serves local Hermitage wines by the glass, take a vineyard tour and tasting with the friendly Paul Jaboulet, who produces consistently top Hermitage wines.
Continue north along the Rhône valley to the Côte-Rôtie. This is the heart of the Côte-Rôtie appellation and the home base of E. Guigal, the most influential winemaker of the region. Today, the appellation — and his wines in particular — have achieved cult status. Enjoy a private visit and a tasting at the château.
Overnight a little farther north in the gastronomic capital of Lyon, or in the picturesque Beaujolais countryside.
Depart Lyon by rail or air to connect with your flight home. Alternatively, take more time to explore gracious Lyon or relax in underrated Beaujolais.
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