JASON FRIEDMAN
FRANK MARANDINO, The Rittenhouse Hotel, Philadelphia—While I was planning my trip to Philadelphia, Concierge Frank Marandino offered invaluable advice about restaurants and sightseeing in the city, and when he overheard us checking in at the front desk, he greeted us as old friends. With 98 rooms, the Rittenhouse isn’t an especially small hotel, but Marandino never failed to remember our names, engaging us in conversation whenever he had the chance. Indeed, he personified the wonderfully warm, personal service of the Rittenhouse, where every staff member seemed determined that we should want for nothing.
DAVID LYNCH, San Francisco—I first encountered David Lynch when he worked with Joe Bastianich and Mario Batali at Babbo in New York. From Manhattan, he headed across the country to Quince in San Francisco. Now, he has just opened St. Vincent, a wine-centric tavern on Valencia Street in the city’s mission district. There, the list features 100 wines for under $100. Lynch is also a fine writer, and is author (along with Bastianich) of the authoritative “Vino Italiano: the Regional Wines of Italy.” To be in the hands of David Lynch is to embark on a magical journey of wine discovery.
KERMIT LYNCH, Wine Importer — Berkeley wine retailer and importer Kermit Lynch celebrated his 40th year in business last year. I wish him another 40 (at least!). The author of a lively monthly newsletter, as well as the contemporary classic “Adventures on the Wine Route,” Lynch spends half his year in the southern Rhône valley, where he co-owns a vineyard in Gigondas. His imports are available all over the country, but during your next trip to San Francisco, I heartily recommend a visit to his pleasant and unassuming brick retail shop in Berkeley.
JOHN BESH, San Francisco — New Orleans — For years, I’ve recommended chef John Besh’s flagship restaurant, the ever-imaginative August. But his culinary empire continues to expand, and I’d wondered whether its high standards would carry over into his newest ventures. On a recent visit to the Crescent City, any doubts were quickly laid to rest. Chic Italian/Creole Domenica delighted me with well-balanced dishes such as squid-ink tagliolini with blue crab, and redfish with peach salad and brown butter zabaione. It seemed less likely that the 1940s-themed American Sector in the National WWII Museum would rise to the same heights, but the blue crab and sausage stew was perhaps the most delicious dish of my trip.