Dining in Munich: Cozy Taverns Plus Haute Cuisine

Dining in Munich is a consistent pleasure, whether in Michelin-starred restaurants or in one of the many traditional pubs. Here are three contrasting venues that we particularly enjoyed on our recent trip:

Wirtshaus

On arrival, I invariably eat first in a casual Wirtshaus (tavern), such as the friendly Wirtshaus im Fraunhofer, a short stroll from the old center. The cozy room has an ornate plaster ceiling, wall-mounted antlers and well-worn wooden tables illuminated by candles. Our cheery bilingual waiter served us asparagus cream soup, followed by plates of pork cutlets with bacon-infused roasted potatoes and onion mustard, washed down with a refreshing Maibock (a strong pale lager).

Fraunhoferstrasse 9. Tel. (49) 89-266-460.

Halali

The more upscale Halali is similarly inviting and congenial. Fortunately, tourists have yet to discover it, and the clientele appeared to be almost exclusively local. Here, the chefs deftly update classic Bavarian cuisine, accompanied by wines from a list particularly strong in Austrian selections. I savored an appetizer of eel with a truffled egg atop fresh whole-grain bread, and a main course of venison in juniper sauce with light spätzle (egg noodles) and red sauerkraut.

Schonfeldstrasse 22. Tel. (49) 89-285-909.

Restaurant Konigshof

The formal Restaurant Königshof overlooks the bustling Karlsplatz. There, we dined on rare mackerel with coriander-crusted avocado, saffron-infused rabbit accompanied by fresh artichokes and spinach, and a crème brûlée spiked with an egg liqueur and served with Turkish apricots. The imaginative sommelier poured several exciting and unusual wines, including a splendid Merlot from Württemberg.

Karlsplatz 25. Tel. (49) 89-551-360.