Enchanting Capitals of the Danube, Part 3: Budapest

Vowing to return to Bratislava for a longer stay, I turned with anticipation to Budapest. The energetic capital of Hungary has long been a favorite European destination, and every time I visit, I find new reasons to love the place. Ruled by the Ottoman Empire for a century and a half, Budapest retains an air of exoticism, only enhanced by the impenetrable Hungarian language. The city has a dense concentration of extraordinarily beautiful cafés and restaurants, ranging from cozy Renaissance vaults in the Castle District of Buda to flamboyant historicist and art nouveau extravaganzas in Pest. In most cases, the food lives up to the settings, and chefs take full advantage of Hungary’s rich selection of local produce and heirloom livestock breeds such as Mangalica pork and Grey beef. Hungary is also a major producer of quality foie gras, matched perfectly by sweet Tokaji wines.

St. George Residence

In season, the Castle District is crowded with tourists during the day but is wonderfully peaceful by sunset, when illuminated landmarks contrast vividly with the evening sky. It seemed like a good idea to spend a couple of nights there, retreating from the traffic and bustle of Pest to the quiet cobbles of Buda. The 26-suite St. George Residence, set in three interconnected baroque houses built on medieval foundations, has great potential. It first operated as an inn in the late 18th century and maintains a richly historic ambience to this day. Regrettably, the suites do not make good use of their large size. Our Diamond Suite, the hotel’s top category, managed the trick of feeling simultaneously cavernous and claustrophobic. The staff were never less than accommodating, but the accommodations are too inconsistent.

AT A GLANCE

LIKE: The charming Buda setting; the accommodating staff; the tranquil garden courtyard; the price.

DISLIKE: The poorly conceived room layouts; the European-style tub with handheld shower.

GOOD TO KNOW: The hotel has no elevators.

St. George Residence 86 Gold Suite, $175; Diamond Suite, $340. Fortuna Utca 4, Budapest, Hungary. Tel. (36) 1-393-5700.

Four Seasons Gresham Palace

Though several properties have attempted to compete, the Four Seasons Gresham Palace remains by far the best choice in Budapest. Its location is peerless, directly facing the Chain Bridge with sweeping views of Buda, and its art nouveau interiors have been exquisitely restored. The three arcades forming the lobby shimmer with sea foam-green Zsolnay tiles, stained glass, and mosaic-tile floors writhing with black-and-white octopus-like tentacles. A pianist enlivens the elegant bar-lounge, an ideal place for afternoon tea or a post-dinner pálinka (fruit brandy), and the art deco Gresham Restaurant presents a lovely breakfast buffet, including a wide selection of local honeys.

The most desirable of the 179 guest rooms face the Danube. Our River-View Park Suite proved to be a junior suite with herringbone floors, Venetian-style silk lamps and ornate plaster moldings with a Mesopotamian motif. The oxblood-hued marble bath felt a touch small for the space, but the views from the living area were stupendous. Each evening, we would fling open the French doors to our Juliet balcony and sink into the sofa, sipping glasses of Hungarian Cabernet as we contemplated the Royal Palace, the Matthias Church, the Chain Bridge and the Danube, crisscrossed by cargo ships and pleasure craft, as it has been for centuries.

AT A GLANCE

LIKE: The peerlessly central location; the stupendous art nouveau design; the mesmerizing Danube and castle views.

DISLIKE: The spa needed freshening: The Jacuzzi had mildew in the grout; and the pool’s tile had stains. 

GOOD TO KNOW: Higher floors do not sacrifice high ceilings for the better views; the bar has several unique cocktails made with Hungarian spirits.

Four Seasons Gresham Palace 96 Danube River-View Room, $560; River-View Park Suite, $1,125. Széchenyi István tér 5-6, Budapest, Hungary. Tel. (36) 1-268-6000.