Gastronomic Highlights | 2015 Grand Awards

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2015 Grand Awards: Gastronomic Highlights

Carmen

The fashionable Carmen restaurant in Cartagena’s Anandá boutique hotel served the best meal of my Colombia trip. My main course of “Pork Two Ways” ranks among the tastiest dishes I’ve ordered in recent memory. The lacquered pork loin was accompanied by a savory 12-hour chicharrón (seasoned pork rinds), buttery green beans and creamy sweet-potato purée.

“Pork Two Ways,” lacquered and accompanied by a savory 12-hour chicharrón (seasoned pork rinds) at Carmen
“Pork Two Ways,” lacquered and accompanied by a savory 12-hour chicharrón (seasoned pork rinds) at Carmen - Photo by Hideaway Report editor

Modrá Hviezda

Bratislava’s “Blue Star” serves traditional Slovak dishes in candlelit brick vaults. I relished the fresh trout stuffed with bacon and mushrooms, accompanied by roasted potatoes. Although served whole, with head, fins and skin intact, the trout had somehow been entirely deboned (an intricate preparation described in Miklós Bánffy’s 1934 novel, “They Were Counted”).

Whole fresh trout stuffed with mushrooms and bacon, accompanied by roasted potatoes at Modrá Hviezda
Whole fresh trout stuffed with mushrooms and bacon, accompanied by roasted potatoes at Modrá Hviezda - Photo by Hideaway Report editor

Tian

When in Vienna, I adore tucking into Wiener Schnitzel and tafelspitz, but I didn’t miss meat for a second at vegetarian Tian. With a stylishly decorated landmark interior, this newly Michelin-starred restaurant concocts seasonal, memorably flavorful dishes such as white and wild asparagus spears in savory chanterelle cream with fresh peas.

White and wild asparagus spears in chanterelle cream with fresh peas at Tian
White and wild asparagus spears in chanterelle cream with fresh peas at Tian - Photo by Hideaway Report editor

El Jardín de los Milagros

I ordered the tasting menu at this superb restaurant in Guanajuato, Mexico, and was not thrilled when a chalupa (tostada platter) topped with ant eggs arrived. It was a pleasant surprise to discover that the eggs tasted like creamy, deliciously nutty risotto!

Chalupa topped with ant eggs at El Jardín de los Milagros
Chalupa topped with ant eggs at El Jardín de los Milagros - Photo by Hideaway Report editor

Sofitel Quiberon Diététique

During our weeklong spa cure in the “Diététique” wing of the Sofitel Quiberon Thalassa Sea & Spa hotel in Brittany, we followed a strict low-calorie regime. However, chef Patrick Jarno’s cooking was remarkable for preserving and even enhancing the pleasures of French gastronomy. A sample meal: warm oysters in their shells on a vegetable remoulade; steamed cod in lemon-seaweed broth; and a deconstructed tarte Tatin.

Steamed cod in lemon-seaweed broth at Le Delight restaurant at France’s Sofitel Quiberon Thalassa Sea & Spa “Diététique” wing
Steamed cod in lemon-seaweed broth at Le Delight restaurant at France’s Sofitel Quiberon Thalassa Sea & Spa “Diététique” wing - Photo by Hideaway Report editor

Pakta

Featuring Peruvian-Japanese cooking — pakta means “together” in the Quechua language of the Andes — the seafood-rich tasting menus at chef Albert Adrià’s small, stylish Barcelona restaurant dazzle with unexpected combinations of flavors and textures. Outstanding dishes include sea bass ceviche with kumquats and Peruvian corn, suckling pig dumplings with golden berry tempura and yuzu salt, and red prawns in pine smoke.

Sea bass ceviche with kumquats and Peruvian corn at Pakta
Sea bass ceviche with kumquats and Peruvian corn at Pakta - Photo by Hideaway Report editor

The Lodge at Koele

At this Four Seasons on Lanai, chef Eren Guryel serves exceptional upcountry cuisine, featuring local and sustainable ingredients sourced from throughout the Hawaiian Islands. On our recent trip, I enjoyed a memorably succulent Hawaiian snapper (onaga) on a bed of black rice with poached fennel and luscious caviar.

Onaga (ruby snapper) on a bed of black rice with poached fennel and caviar sauce in the Dining Room restaurant at The Lodge at Koele
Onaga (ruby snapper) on a bed of black rice with poached fennel and caviar sauce in the Dining Room restaurant at The Lodge at Koele - Photo by Hideaway Report editor

Fogo Island Inn

Chef Murray McDonald creates an unforgettable lunchtime dish called “Ocean in a Bowl,” a masterful concoction of smoked lobster broth with local scallops, shrimp and seaweed. It reminded me of some of the elevated dishes I’ve enjoyed at kaiseki meals in Japan — but this was in Newfoundland.

“Ocean in a Bowl,” smoked lobster broth with local scallops, shrimp and seaweed at Fogo Island Inn
“Ocean in a Bowl,” smoked lobster broth with local scallops, shrimp and seaweed at Fogo Island Inn - Photo by Hideaway Report editor

The Inn at Pound Ridge by Jean-Georges

Superstar chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten recently renovated a grand 1833 residence at Pound Ridge, north of New York City. A dinner entrée of a Berkshire pork chop wrapped in prosciutto with mushrooms and sage in a white-wine sauce could not have been more delicious, or satisfying.

Berkshire pork chop wrapped in prosciutto with mushrooms and sage in a white-wine sauce at The Inn at Pound Ridge by Jean-Georges
Berkshire pork chop wrapped in prosciutto with mushrooms and sage in a white-wine sauce at The Inn at Pound Ridge by Jean-Georges - Photo by Hideaway Report editor

Castello Banfi

While in Tuscany, on more than one occasion I was able to indulge in one of my favorite dishes: ragu of wild boar on a bed of fresh fettuccine. The best by far was that made by chef Riccardo Cappelli at Castello Banfi, southeast of Siena.

Ragu of wild boar on a bed of fresh fettuccine at Castello Banfi
Ragu of wild boar on a bed of fresh fettuccine at Castello Banfi - Photo by Hideaway Report editor
By Hideaway Report Editor Hideaway Report editors travel the world anonymously to give you the unvarnished truth about luxury hotels. Hotels have no idea who the editors are, so they are treated exactly as you might be.
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