Grand Awards Caribbean

Jumby Bay, Antigua

We have been visiting Jumby Bay regularly since it opened in 1983. A 320-acre private island two miles north of Antigua — 15 minutes by speedboat — it has long enjoyed the affections of many Harper members. In 2008, the hotel was closed for a $28 million renovation. Actually, it was pretty much razed except for some of the original rondavels, and 28 new suites were built — for a total of 40 rooms —as well as two new restaurants and a spa, all of which debuted at the end of 2009.

We had opted for one of the new Courtyard Suites, which are housed within stucco cottages with tile roofs. Entering through a courtyard, we found a spacious room with a vaulted ceiling, a sitting area and a large four-poster bed. It was appointed with furniture that seemed vaguely Caribbean British Colonial, thanks to details such as pineapple finials on the bedposts. A dressing area led to an expansive tiled bath with mosaic walls, and a captivating outdoor bathing courtyard came with a shower and a soaking tub. Bliss.

Both The Verandah in the main building and The Pool Grille offer fine casual fare, however, we most enjoyed The Estate House, a Spanish Colonial structure dating from 1830. Two highlights of the Caribbean-inflected food were lobster ravioli in a spicy broth, and lamb enlivened with “mojito” flavorings of rum and mint. The open-air Sense spa offers a predictable catalog of treatments, plus special therapies such as the “Sun Worshiper,” a hydrating body treatment for those who have spent too much time basking on the beach.

Jumby Bay is the most accessible of the Caribbean’s leading private island resorts, and after more than a quarter of a century, it has finally fulfilled its potential.

Jumby Bay Rondavel Room, $975-$1,495; Courtyard Suite, $1,395-$2,300; Pool Suite, $1,525-$2,650. Rates are all-inclusive and vary according to the season. P.O. Box 243, St. John’s, Antigua. Tel. (268) 462-6000 or (888) 7673-9663.

Hôtel Le Toiny, St. Barths

Those in search of seclusion need look no farther than the Hôtel Le Toiny, set on a hillside overlooking the sparsely populated Côte Sauvage, four miles east of St. Barths’ capital, Gustavia. (A hired car is re-quired for trips to swimming beaches 15 minutes away.) I have long recommended this delectable enclave, but my previous visit was prior to an ongoing refurbishment program.

The 14 suites and one three-bedroom complex were laid out to ensure optimal privacy, as well as panoramic views. We had opted to stay in a 1,075-square-foot One-bedroom Villa Suite. These are self-contained, pastel-colored tin-roofed Caribbean cottages. Now decorated in an elegant French Colonial style, each comes with a spacious living room, separated from the bedroom by a sliding partition. Glass doors lead out onto a terrace, in which is set a 10-by-20-foot private swimming pool. The current program of improvements will reline the pools with black volcanic stone, changing the color of the water from tur-quoise to a deep marine blue.

What has not changed at Le Toiny is its superb restaurant, Le Gaiac, which remains the top dining spot on St. Barths. The enchanting open-air space is fronted by a half-moon infinity pool, beyond which the Caribbean is punctuated by the volcanic profiles of the islands Saba and Sint Eustatius. Chef Sté-phane Mazières’ sumptuous cuisine imaginatively blends French and Creole elements, with favorite dishes from our stay including sea urchin roe in a cauliflower cream with dots of caviar, and turbot served with a flavorful eggplant caviar and tomato tartare.

Hôtel Le Toiny is a sophisticated hideaway that continues to improve with time.

Hôtel Le Toiny One-bedroom Villa Suite, $2,190 (winter season); Three-bedroom Villa, $4,310. Anse de Toiny, Saint Barthélemy, French West Indies. Tel. (800) 680-0832.