During my exploration of Colonial Mexico, I stayed at three hotels I didn’t have room to cover in the print edition of the Hideaway Report. Each has its merits, but before reserving a stay, you should know what you’re getting into. Neither their websites nor the glowing reviews in the travel press tell the whole story.
I had hoped that the 10-room Villa Ganz would compete with the Quinta Real Guadalajara, and indeed, its location amid the myriad inviting bars and restaurants of Chapultepec was excellent. But the accommodations need freshening. Two dirty plastic chairs spoiled the effect of our lovely private patio and fountain. Inside our spacious suite (#26) was a shower and separate soaking tub, king bed and a great room with living, dining and kitchen areas. But the bedroom felt spartan, capped by a cheap-looking ceiling fan, and its wooden dresser suffered from dents and scratches. Housekeeping was also problematic, missing dust in corners and yet cleaning so aggressively that the smell of bleach permeated the space for hours.
Nevertheless, I enjoyed breakfasting in the indoor-outdoor lounge adjacent to the quiet garden, and the staff members were always ready to help. With some work, the Villa Ganz could be a lovely addition to the Guadalajara scene, but is not currently recommendable.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: The central location; the candlelit indoor-outdoor lounge.
DISLIKE: The hodgepodge décor; our dirty patio furniture; the odor of bleach.
GOOD TO KNOW: Suite 26 can be configured with two bedrooms and baths; those wishing to dine in can choose from an extensive menu of Italian classics.
Villa Ganz 87 Master Suite, $210; Grand Master Suite, $240. López Cotilla 1739, Colonia Lafayette, Guadalajara. Tel. (52) 333-120-1416.
In Guanajuato, Edelmira has a peerlessly central location for exploring the city, on a pedestrian-only street just off the Jardín de la Unión. The panoramic view from its roof terrace is stupendous, and the 27 accommodations are attractive, with exposed stone walls, contemporary furnishings done in blue-accented earth tones, and baths faced in limestone and granite. Alas, the “suites” are terribly cramped. Our compact Superior Deluxe (#02), the largest category of accommodation, had woefully inadequate storage and very little counter space in the shower-only bath.
Service, too, was sometimes irksome. Arranging dinner on the furnished roof terrace — a not uncommon request at this property — proved to be quite a chore. The next morning at breakfast, the lukewarm coffee was accompanied by plastic tubs of artificial creamer, and the juices on the small buffet tasted as though they might once have been powder. Inconveniently, tips for meals could not be added to the checks — only cash would do.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: The cheerful contemporary décor; the ideal location; the roof terrace views.
DISLIKE: The minuscule rooms; the occasionally frustrating service; the lackluster breakfast.
GOOD TO KNOW: Not even taxis can reach the front door — it’s necessary to walk about a block to reach the hotel.
Edelmira 88 Suite, $175; Superior Deluxe, $200. Allende 7, Jardín Unión, Centro Histórico, Guanajuato. Tel. (52) 473-732-3743.
I woke up in the morning groggy from the lack of soundproofing, and the mediocre breakfast did little to enhance my mood.
Matters did not improve at Morelia’s 11-room Cantera Diez, set in a striking 17th-century palace on the Plaza de Armas. Although our Cantera Suite had a prime location in the center of the piano nobile facing the front of Morelia’s cathedral, and contained crystal chandeliers and immensely tall French doors rising to an elaborately decorated blue-and-gold ceiling high above, its opulence could not disguise its many flaws. Dust and hair had collected in the corners of the black wood floor, and the two armchairs — upholstered in a thick polyester unappealing even when new — exhibited stains. A fake orchid stood atop an incongruous Chinese coffee table, under which lay an aged brown area rug. The jets in the Jacuzzi emitted a single wheeze before failing. The bath itself won’t be to everyone’s taste, since its glass walls offer little privacy.
I woke up in the morning groggy from the lack of soundproofing, and the mediocre breakfast did little to enhance my mood. Fortunately, we had booked only one night, and we moved on with great relief to the excellent Casa Grande just across the plaza.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: The cathedral views; the soaring, ornate ceiling of our suite.
DISLIKE: The sloppy housekeeping; the stained polyester-upholstered chairs; the lack of soundproofing.
GOOD TO KNOW: The Cantera Suite has a full-size wet bar in the entry hall.
Cantera Diez 84 Master Suite, $205; Cantera Suite, $250. Benito Juárez 63, Centro Histórico, Morelia. Tel. (52) 443-312-5419.
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