Jazz in Tokyo

When I think about music in Japan, jazz is certainly not the first genre that comes to mind. But the Tokyo jazz scene is slowly gaining momentum and becoming more popular with locals and foreigners alike. International artists are booking shows in well-known clubs such as the Blue Note. However, on this trip, two underground jazz spots surpassed my expectations.

The Shinjuku Pit Inn is for true aficionados and resembles a small concert hall with seats directly facing the stage. The audience is there solely for the high-quality music. No food is served, and few people around me ordered drinks other than beer or coffee. The focus is on the band and there is even a recording studio on the side. Evenings are for professionals, but weekday matinees are dedicated to budding musicians.

In Roppongi, the hard-to-find Alfie club is a shrine to jazz. Its tiny interior is exceedingly intimate or plain overcrowded, according to your point of view. Loyal devotees return for the superior talent. The club owner, who is there nightly, is friendly and attentive. There are two early sets, and jam sessions often continue until dawn.

I revisited the famous Blue Note Tokyo, founded in 1988 seven years after the club first opened in New York City. It started out as a jazz establishment, but now presents different genres. Set up as a cabaret dinner club, it offers table seating on the floor, plus red velvet booths. The club feels touristy, with short sets and expensive food, but the music is of a high caliber.