I have long harbored a special affection for the immense tract of wild country that extends from the northern slopes of Mount Kenya to the Matthews Range and, ultimately, the border with Ethiopia. This is a land of 50-mile views, home to the Samburu people, the scarlet-cloaked cousins of the Maasai.
Back in colonial times, it was called the Northern Frontier District, and a certain romance was inseparable from the name. Unlike central Kenya, which is green, fertile and well-watered, the region is arid and of little use for agriculture; both the people and their cattle tend to be lean.
Lewa Downs is a 100-square-mile conservancy from which, in clear weather, the snows of 17,057-foot Mount Kenya are plainly visible. For more than 60 years, the estate was run as a cattle ranch, but in 1983, owners David and Delia Craig set aside 5,000 acres as a rhino sanctuary. In 1995, the Craigs decided to dedicate the entire property to conservation. Today, there are around 120 rhino on Lewa, protected by 100 or more rangers equipped with planes, helicopters, even bloodhounds! Lion, cheetah and leopard are all resident, as are the chronically endangered Grevy’s zebra (for which the lion have a particular liking).
Accommodations on Lewa comprise four guest lodges, plus Kifaru, a hilltop private house with room for up to 12 people. The most romantic of the lodges is Wilderness Trails, the home of Will and Emma Craig, where 16 guests are housed in eight traditional thatched cottages. These are spacious and comfortable, but not luxurious in the contemporary sense of the word. There is no air-conditioning, and the baths are adequate but comparatively simple. However, the setting of the lodge, on the edge of a river gorge, is idyllic. And the Craigs are charming hosts, who strive to foster the sense that you are staying as their valued houseguest. Amenities include a sizeable swimming pool and a clay tennis court.
Most of the activities on Lewa are coordinated from Wilderness Trails, and these include bush walks with Samburu guides, horseback riding and camel safaris. Will Craig is an experienced bush pilot, and his pride and joy is a bright yellow open-cockpit biplane that guests can charter by the hour for low-level explorations of Lewa and the surrounding area.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: The sense of being in a private home belonging to a long-established Kenyan family; interacting with the Samburu staff; experiencing a conservation success story.
DISLIKE: The baths are simple, and the showers can be hard to regulate.
GOOD TO KNOW: For adventurous travelers, magical three- to 14-day camel safaris can be arranged.
Lewa Wilderness Trails 89 Hillside Room, $1,680 for two (peak season), all meals and game drives included.
For those in search of more opulent surroundings, I recommend Sirikoi Lodge, a sumptuous property run by Willie Roberts, a well-known Kenyan safari guide and conservationist. Sirikoi comprises four elegantly appointed Luxury Tented Rooms mounted on wooden decks, each with a fireplace and a spacious bath equipped with both a shower and freestanding tub. Nearby, Sirikoi Cottage offers two bedrooms, each with its own bath, a shared central living area with a small kitchen, and a spacious deck. The pièce de résistance, however, is Sirikoi House, a self-contained three-bedroom property owned by a couple from Indiana, Fred and Suzie Fehsenfeld. When they are not in residence, this is available on an exclusive basis and comes with its own vehicles, guides, chef and household staff. Activities at Sirikoi include excursions by quad bike (ATV), helicopter flights to Mount Kenya and visits to the Lewa rhino sanctuary, where guests are able to walk in the bush with baby rhinos and their handlers.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: Serene location overlooking a natural water hole; exceptionally stylish public areas; lovely pool.
DISLIKE: Aside from the expense, very little.
GOOD TO KNOW: Willie Roberts also operates a luxury mobile tented camp, which can be set up in remote locations throughout Kenya; guests then arrive by plane or helicopter.
Sirikoi Lodge 94 Luxury Tented Room, $1,866 (peak season), all meals and game drives included.
Return to the February 2014 Hideaway Report Table of Contents
Read the next article in this issue: Where To Go, When: The Migration
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