South African hotelier Liz Biden opened her first property, Royal Malewane safari lodge, in 2000. This was followed by Birkenhead House on the Indian Ocean and La Residence in the Cape Winelands. I enthusiastically recommend all three. Next year, her portfolio will be augmented by The Silo, a 28-room hotel on Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront. It promises to be quite extraordinary. The principal occupant of the old grain silo — which comprises 42 concrete tubes, each 108 feet high — will be the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa. The hotel, with its restaurant, spa and champagne bar, will be situated directly above, commanding panoramic views of Table Mountain and the Atlantic. In less capable hands, this extraordinarily ambitious project might prove a fiasco. I suspect, however, that it will be a triumph.
In Zimbabwe, good news has been hard to come by during 27 years of misrule by President Robert Mugabe, now age 91. Inflation reached a surreal 79.6 billion percent in November 2008; the army slaughtered game in the country’s national parks for food; and the farming and tourist industries collapsed. The future remains highly uncertain, but some believe that the dark times are coming to an end. Certainly, this must be the view of Wilderness Safaris, an admirable South African company, many of whose properties I recommend. Linkwasha Camp opened in May this year overlooking a water hole on a private concession in Hwange National Park. Eight luxury tents and a family tent are complemented by a pool deck and a library. Game-viewing on the nearby Ngamo Plains is reported to be exceptional once again. Perhaps this brave venture represents a glimmer of hope for the future.
For the past 25 years, The Ivy has probably been London’s best-known restaurant. Located in Theatreland at the edge of Covent Garden, it has long been famous for its British comfort food — shepherd’s pie; Dover sole; haddock and French fries with a side order of Béarnaise sauce — its remarkable modern art collection and its A-list clientele of actors and movie stars. In November, The Ivy Market Grill opened nearby. This debut was followed briskly at the end of March by The Ivy Chelsea Garden on King’s Road. Now, the original restaurant has reopened after a comprehensive five-month refurbishment, which has resulted in a glamorous new central dining bar with pink leather swivel seats and a coral-colored onyx bar top, glowing in light shed by Lalique-style lamps. The best thing about The Ivy, however, was always the staff’s talent for making ordinary mortals feel like celebrities. I trust that this amiable quality has remained unchanged.
One of my favorite California Wine Country retreats, Bernardus Lodge & Spa, set on 28 lavender-scented acres 15 minutes from Carmel, has reopened under new ownership and management after a four-month, multimillion-dollar renovation. All 57 guest rooms have been refurbished; the public areas have been redesigned with vineyard views and outdoor fireplaces; and the spa has added a new hot tub and pool cabanas. At the new Lucia Restaurant & Bar, chef Cal Stamenov presents cuisine intended to be simpler and more informal than that at the previous Marinus. A dramatic new 2,300-square-foot outdoor dining terrace is backdropped by the Santa Lucia Mountains. I have not yet had a chance to see the reimagined resort, but a visit is close to the top of my list of priorities. I will report on my stay as soon as possible.
Next month will bring two more of my personal guides: U.S. & Canada and Australia, New Zealand & South Pacific. Updates feature our latest discoveries, regional notebooks, touring maps, restaurants and, of course, my hotel recommendations. The Harper Collection books can be purchased online. They are also mailed bimonthly to Premier subscribers. To upgrade your subscription,
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