Favorite Wineries in the Macedon Ranges

One purpose for my visit to Daylesford was to try the wines of the region, which are not especially well-known, even to Australians. With a varied topography, the Macedon Ranges contain 30 or so wineries. To the traveler’s disadvantage, they are spread throughout a wide area, rather than conveniently dotted along main roads such as those of Napa and Sonoma are. By the standards of wine regions, Macedon is considered cool to cold and relatively high — roughly 1,300 to 2,300 feet above sea level — a combination that imparts certain general characteristics to its wines. The sparkling wines are very good, while others typically have fragrant bouquets, lower alcohol levels and medium bodies. Varieties that do well here are Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Shiraz. Here are three wineries that I particularly enjoyed.

Passing Clouds

This small, family-owned and -run winery creates some of the best wines in the region and is conveniently located a very short drive from Daylesford, in the town of Musk. The man who started it all, Graeme Leith, happened to be in the tasting room on the day of our visit, and he was most generous with his time and comments. Among the wines I most liked was the 2012 Graeme’s Blend, a mix of 40 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 60 percent Shiraz. It is an elegant wine with a nose of raspberries and cassis, and tastes of spicy red fruits, a sweet undertone and a smooth finish. And, although Passing Clouds made its mark with its reds, the 2014 Macedon Chardonnay, a new release, had all the characteristics I look for in a Chardonnay — no oak; crisp, apple-inflected notes; and a slightly citrusy palate with a long finish.

Hanging Rock Winery

Set in the middle of the region, this is its largest producer. And yes, the name comes from the striking geologic feature in Peter Weir’s brooding film “Picnic at Hanging Rock.” Owned and run by the Ellis family, the winery produces a wide range. Most notable are the sparklers, and I especially liked the non-vintage Macedon Brut Cuvée XIV, made from a 60/40 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. I found pleasant hints of cassis on the nose and the wine overall to be crisp, bright and immensely satisfying. Another wine that I admired was the 2012 Jim Jim Pinot Noir, with a light, spicy nose of cassis and raspberry and a strong finish. Very much like a good Burgundy, the wine’s light hue belied its power.

Curly Flat

Located at the eastern edge of the region, this small producer creates wines of real note. Established in 1989 by Phillip Moraghan and Jenifer Kolkka, it focuses on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, which are ideally suited to the local cool microclimate. The owners’ goal was to produce wines in the style of France, and to a great degree, they have succeeded. The 2011 Pinot Noir exhibited a bouquet of black cherries and is a smooth, supple wine with a dark undertone on the palate that gives it depth and complexity. The 2012 Chardonnay is a rounded, well-structured wine with a note of apple and a nice creamy texture. It should be wonderful in a year or two.