The land benefits from cooling breezes off the Indian Ocean, which provide an antidote to the heat of long, sunny days.
The youngest of Australia’s wine regions — the first vines were planted in 1967— Margaret River produces some of the country’s most respected wines, bottlings with finesse and refinement that are markedly different from the better-known, bolder wines. The land benefits from cooling breezes off the Indian Ocean, which provide an antidote to the heat of long, sunny days. While Margaret River was first known for its Cabernet Sauvignons and Chardonnays, its portfolio has expanded to include Sauvignon Blancs and Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc blends, and Shiraz. Almost 160 wineries are in operation here. These were the standouts from our recent visit.
Dr. Tom Cullity planted the first grapes here in 1967, convinced that this would be an ideal spot for a vineyard. He has been proven right. A beautiful estate just a short drive from Cape Lodge, Vasse Felix welcomes visitors to its landscaped grounds with a well-run tasting room (or, to use the Australian term, “cellar door”) and a superb restaurant, one of the finest in Western Australia (open for lunch only). The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon displayed a nose redolent of cassis and black currants, and a palate with soft fruits balanced by enough tannin to ensure promising aging. I also admired the 2014 Sauvignon Blanc Semillon, with its slightly floral nose balanced by a hint of herbs, and a fresh palate of citrus and just a snap of green apple. Lunch in the handsome dining room overlooking the vineyards was startlingly good: an unusual starter of emu with smoked oysters, horseradish and kohlrabi; and a main course of pork, octopus, gazpacho and fennel.
Caves Road and Tom Cullity Drive, Margaret River. Tel. (61) 8-9756-5000.
A long driveway at this winery leads to a pavilion-like building with an art gallery, restaurant (lunch only) and tasting area. The principal wines here are the Margaret River classics: Cabernet, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc Semillon and Shiraz. Among the wines I sampled, two stood out. The 2012 Single Vineyard Shiraz was elegant, with an enticing nose of spice and black raspberries, and well-integrated fruit and tannins. The 2013 Single Vineyard Chardonnay won me over with its crisp, slightly tropical nose and tastes of apple and pear. The restaurant is a glassed-in space overlooking rolling vine-covered hills that makes a gorgeous spot for lunch. Having heard about marrons — an Australian crustacean similar to crayfish — I tried a starter of marron tail with quandong (a popular bush fruit) and bunya bunya, made from the nut of the bunya pine tree. Determined to try as much indigenous food as possible, I continued with seared wallaby with Illawarra plum, and damper, a traditional Australian soda bread.
Abbey Farm Road and Brash Road, Yallingup. Tel. (61) 8-9755-2327.
The wonderful drive to this winery passes through fragrant karri (eucalyptus) forests and proceeds all the way down to the rugged tip of Cape Leeuwin. In a beautiful setting that often hosts musical events of note, Leeuwin Estate has an international reputation, especially for its “Art Series” Chardonnay. I found the 2012 a stunner, with an irresistible nose of pears and a citrus note of lemon. The palate has an undertaste of nut with bright notes of lime, pear and just a touch of oak. The other wine that really captured me was the 2011 Siblings Shiraz, with its nose of blackberries and blueberries with a dash of pepper, and the palate of plum and red currant with a whisper of vanilla. The open dining room leads onto a pergola-covered terrace. There, we indulged in briny, sweet oysters accompanied by the Chardonnay, followed by succulent Kimberley tiger prawns with Muscat grapes.
Stevens Road, Margaret River. Tel. (61) 8-9759-0000.
I was particularly interested in this property because the Cullen family, with a reputation for nothing-stops-us innovation, runs the winery as an organic and biodynamic enterprise. I loved the restaurant/tasting room, with its engaging staff and views to the vineyards. Among the whites, I liked the 2013 Cullen Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Semillon, which had a grapefruit-lemon nose with a touch of vanilla, and a palate with promises of grapefruit and mint. Although Cullen is renowned for its Diana Madeline Cabernet blend, I enjoyed the 2013 Mangan Vineyard Merlot Malbec Petit Verdot blend, a wine with impressive structure and balance, and a pleasing nose of blackberries and cedar, plus flavors of dark berries and plums.
4323 Caves Road, Wilyabrup. Tel. (61) 8-9755-5277.
When we arrived at its modest white clapboard building, I suspected that this would be one of those smaller operations that makes conspicuously good wine. My hopes were realized during our tasting. Cabernets are the stars here, and the 2012 “Margaret” stunned me with its alluring nose of ripe berries and cedar, as well as a superb balance of fruit and tannins. The other wine that impressed me was the 2013 “Chloe” reserve Chardonnay. The nose is ripe with citrus and a hint of spice, and on the palate, I tasted apples with a dash of butterscotch. It is a wine of structure and complexity, with a long, smooth finish.
Caves Road and Metricup Road, Wilyabrup. Tel. (61) 8-9755-6226.
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