For many people, the dramatic beauty of Australia, including its unique flora and fauna, provides the main reason for a first visit. But nearly everyone who returns, myself included, does so because Australia is one of the happiest, friendliest and most optimistic places on earth. Add its incredible food and wine to the mix, plus some remarkable new hideaways, and you have a truly irresistible destination.
Australia has long been called “The Lucky Country,” and certainly this is as true today as ever, since China's voracious appetite for its coal and minerals has led to boom times Down Under. Nowadays, Sydney sports a high gloss of prosperity, and its newfound wealth makes many locals insouciant in the face of eye-watering prices. For visitors, the situation is aggravated by the new parity between the Aussie dollar and the greenback. Still, expensive though it has become, Sydney remains a spectacular city with iconic architecture, intriguing restaurants, wonderful museums, a raft of excellent hotels and perhaps the most beautiful natural harbor in the world, crisscrossed by its famous fleet of green ferries. For me, it is a thrilling combination of everything there is to like about San Francisco, Los Angeles, Vancouver and Cape Town.
Blue Mountains
After several days trying some of the city's excellent new restaurants (see “Three Great Sydney Restaurants”), we traveled by car and driver to the most talked-about new hotel in Australia, the Wolgan Valley Resort & Spa, which opened in October 2009. Located three hours northwest of Sydney in the Blue Mountains of the Great Dividing Range, the property is set on a magnificent 4,000-acre former cattle ranch in a U-shaped valley defined by dramatic sandstone escarpments. Purchased for $6 million in 2005 by the Emirates group of Dubai, it subsequently received an investment of almost $140 million and is now one of Australia's great destination lodges.
Forty colonial-style bungalows come with screened verandas, corrugated metal roofs and private decks. Inside, leather wing chairs and sofas are grouped around gas-burning fireplaces, and the extensive use of local materials, notably slate, provides indigenous character. Bedrooms offer indulgent four-poster beds and spacious walk-in closets. Stylish, slate-faced baths are equipped with separate tubs and showers. Every cottage has a private heated plunge pool.
Guests cycle, walk or call for buggy service to the main homestead. This contains two excellent restaurants serving contemporary Australian cuisine. Somewhat surprisingly given the complex logistics of the sprawling estate, the resort offers a lengthy room service menu, so if you want to relax in the privacy of your bungalow, fine dining is just a phone call away. Other amenities include a heated swimming pool and a first-rate spa.
Wolgan is a blissful place to relax, but there is also a full daily schedule of activities, including horseback riding, hikes and four-wheel-drive “safaris.” One wonderful afternoon excursion delivered numerous wildlife sightings — including kangaroos — and ended with sundowners and canapés on a hilltop deck overlooking the property. We also enjoyed a narrated after-dinner stargazing session, learning to identify Southern Hemisphere constellations while sipping a first-rate local eau-de-vie.
Though Wolgan is splendid, it is not perfect. The food is good but could be better. We liked our informal lunch at the Country Kitchen restaurant more than the rather fussy fine-dining dinner menu in the main restaurant. And the local wines tend to be pleasant rather than memorable and have a very high alcohol content. The property will also be more attractive when the landscaping around the bungalows has filled in. But overall, this fine resort provides an unforgettable taste of the Australian great outdoors within easy reach of Sydney.
WOLGAN VALLEY RESORT & SPA 95 Heritage Suite, $1,475 (including all meals, local wines and most activities). 2600 Wolgan Road, Wolgan Valley, Lithgow. Tel. (61) 2-6350-1800.
Adelaide and Kangaroo Island
After a helicopter transfer back to Sydney, we flew on to Adelaide, the capital of South Australia. In their eagerness to reach the Barossa wine region, many people see nothing but the airport, which is a shame, since Adelaide is an attractive place with many beautiful Victorian and Edwardian buildings (see “A Guide to Adelaide”).
On previous visits, we have stayed at the InterContinental hotel, but in search of more local character, we took the advice of an Australian friend and checked into the Medina Grand Adelaide Treasury hotel. In an excellent location, it occupies a renovated sandstone Victorian building, which originally housed the State Treasury of South Australia. Though not sure what to expect from a self-described apartment hotel, we took to the place right away. Staff members proved exceptionally hospitable, and our spacious junior suite came with a large lounge, kitchenette, dining table and views over Adelaide's handsome Victoria Square. The on-site pool was welcome on a warm day, and the hotel bar overlooking a pretty courtyard garden with subtropical plantings and a cast-iron fountain was frequented by a friendly local crowd. The Medina Grand is not a luxury hotel, but rather a very comfortable and well-run property, ideal for an overnight stay and very good value for money.
MEDINA GRAND ADELAIDE TREASURY 89 One-bedroom Premier Grand Apartment, $290. 2 Flinders Street, Adelaide. Tel. (61) 8-8112-0000.
A 40-minute flight from Adelaide brought us to Kangaroo Island. More than 90 miles long, but with just 4,300 inhabitants, this is a wild and magnificent place. Owing to its dramatic scenery and teeming wildlife— including sea lions, koalas and kangaroos — the island is often referred to as “Australia's Galapagos.” On arrival, we were greeted at the tiny Kingscote airport by Andrew, a friendly Tasmanian. The ensuing one-hour drive through a landscape of moors and lamb-dotted pastures reminded us consecutively of Big Sur, Nantucket and the Aran Islands off the west coast of Ireland.
It has been some time since we've been as impressed by a new hotel as we were by Southern Ocean Lodge, which opened in March 2008. At the end of a long, bumpy road, iron gates swung aside, and shortly thereafter, we caught our first glimpse of the property, perched high above Kangaroo Island's spectacular southern coast. There, dramatic wind- and sea-gouged cliffs are scoured by white-crested breakers and punctuated by glorious white-sand beaches.
Check-in and orientation were exceptionally gracious and charming. Stylishly dressed in a linen tunic and loose white trousers, our receptionist Heather outlined the itinerary that had been planned for us and suggested a light lunch followed by a four-hour tour of the island. Initially, however, we relaxed in the magnificent Great Room, a huge pavilion with floor-to-ceiling windows and a wall of golden limestone. The space is compartmentalized by the exquisite furniture of Adelaide-based, Malaysian-born furniture designer Khai Liew. Liew's pieces are inspired by '60s Scandinavian and traditional Chinese designs, and many are crafted in pale American oak. The décor is augmented by a suspended wood-burning steel fireplace and tables piled with magazines and books.
The 21 suites all come with hypnotic views of the Southern Ocean, which extends as far as Antarctica, and are situated on a sloping hallway that runs along a cliff top. Our room, #2, required a long walk, but the compensations were privacy and magnificent views over a sandy cove. A paved limestone entrance gave way to floors made from recycled timber. In front of the window, an inviting sofa was dotted with oatmeal canvas bolsters, kangaroo-print cushions and a soft brown wool throw. Bedside switches operated blackout shades on the ocean-facing wall. There was no television, which would be superfluous in such a gloriously remote location, but we found a Bose CD player with an iPod dock on a long, built-in oak desk. (Three suites have TVs, and can be specifically requested.) The bath was faced with toast-colored limestone, equipped with underfloor heating and a stall shower, and provided locally made lavender-scented toiletries. Suites #6 and #8 have soaking tubs and Jacuzzis. An outdoor terrace came with a built-in couch. All told, our suite was one of the most delightful places we've had the pleasure of occupying in a very long time.
The resort's cleverly designed dining room has tables set in intimate niches in the limestone wall, as well as others by windows overlooking the ocean. Given the constraints of a remote location, the food is excellent, with a daily market menu augmented by one of appealing comfort food. Among the dishes we especially enjoyed were grilled squid with a chili dipping sauce, smoked abalone with soba noodles and shaved pickled ginger, and grilled locally caught snapper in a lime and ginger sauce.
Southern Ocean Lodge is owned by Hayley and James Baillie, both of whom are committed environmentalists. (Their first project was the Harper-recommended Capella Lodge on pristine Lord Howe Island in the South Pacific.) As a result, solar panels are scattered around the grounds, the lodge has only a small plunge pool, and water is drawn from an underground well and has to be desalinated. Nonetheless, facilities include a terrific spa with idyllic treatment rooms overlooking the Southern Ocean.
On a memorable four-hour excursion to Flinders Chase National Park, we saw dozens of Australian sea lions and New Zealand fur seals, volcanic blowholes, several historic lighthouses and numerous kangaroos, wallabies and koalas. Southern Ocean Lodge was undoubtedly the highlight of our trip to Australia.
SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE 98 Flinders Suite, $990 per person, including all meals, drinks, excursions and airport transfers; Remarkable Suite, $1,500. Hanson Bay, Kangaroo Island. Tel. (61) 8-8559-7347.
The Barossa Valley
Following our weekend on Kangaroo Island, we drove north for two hours from Adelaide to the Barossa Valley. Australia's most famous wine region is just 20 miles long, an enchanting place with a landscape of rolling hills and neat vineyards. Its small but sophisticated towns such as Tanunda and Lyndoch display a Teutonic tidiness, which, along with excellent charcuteries and Lutheran churches, provides evidence of the German immigrants who joined the original British settlers. Barossa should be toured at a gentle pace, stopping for a wine-tasting (see “Barossa Valley Favorites”), a really excellent meal or a walk down an old-fashioned main street lined with bakeries, bookstores and colorful boutiques.
After an excellent lunch at the 1918 Bistro & Grill in Tanunda, we headed north to The Louise, an elegant 15-suite contemporary country house hotel at the northern end of the valley. The hotel was purchased by Jim Carreker, an American who had previously worked in the San Francisco high-tech world. A decade ago, he and his wife opted to start a new life, and after several years of travel, they decided to open a hotel. “We took notes,” Carreker told us during a chat before dinner. “Our goal was to create a hotel that was almost perfect.”
Ideally situated for touring the Barossa vineyards, The Louise stands amid beautifully landscaped grounds that overlook neat rows of vines. A bank of lavender and a long rectangular pool line a stoned-paved path that leads up to the main building. This houses reception, the hotel's acclaimed Appellation restaurant, a sauna and a swimming pool.
Our suite was both luxurious and exceptionally well-conceived. Opening a wooden gate in a stone wall, we found a pretty interior courtyard with a table and chairs in an alcove that later proved ideal for a sunny breakfast. The peaceful sitting room came with a high ceiling, crown moldings, a gas fireplace, a Bose CD player with an iPod dock, and contemporary paintings. French doors led to a spacious private terrace with twin chaises longues. Beyond a pair of heavy wooden doors, the bedroom provided a counter desk, an extremely comfortable double bed and sophisticated lighting. The well-lit limestone bath was equipped with a whirlpool tub and a stall shower. (An additional outdoor shower was enclosed by a high stone wall.
Appellation is one of the most highly rated restaurants in Australia, and despite occasionally slow and rather mannered service, we enjoyed an excellent meal that included smoked salmon with tiny cubes of cucumber, tomato and crushed hazelnuts with a pool of wasabi cream; barley risotto with spinach and shavings of tangy local cheese; and filet of beef — all accompanied by a superb assortment of local wines by the glass. It should be noted, however, that the prices here are as steep as those in the best restaurants of New York or San Francisco. (For food and wine travelers, The Louise provides a variety of excursions, including a “Winemaker Private Introductions” package, from $930 for two.)
THE LOUISE 93 Suite, $430-$1,030, breakfast included. Corner of Seppeltsfield Road and Stonewall Road, Marananga. Tel. (61) 8-8562-2722.
Anyone looking for a less expensive and possibly more authentic experience of the Barossa Valley might want to consider the Abbotsford Country House, a hospitable and attractive eight-room hotel on a hillside just outside of Lyndoch. The property is run by the delightful Julian Maul, an Australian who worked in advertising in the United Kingdom before throwing it all over to build this property with his charming Scottish wife, Jane (a highly talented cook who produces delicious country breakfasts).
Bedrooms are located in a set of out-buildings that evoke rural Australian architecture with corrugated roofs and wide verandas. Our spacious room was decorated in traditional English country house style with a floral chintz-covered sofa and a large and inviting bed. Surrounded by a beautiful rose garden, a 50-acre working cattle ranch and vineyards, this is an exceptionally pleasant, peaceful property.
ABBOTSFORD COUNTRY HOUSE 89 Deluxe Suite, $275; Super Deluxe Suite, $355. Yaldara Drive, Lyndoch. Tel. (61) 8-8524-4662.
Hamilton Island
The final stop on our journey was lush, green Hamilton Island, a 90-minute flight from Brisbane off Australia's northeast coast. Located in the Whitsunday Islands, Hamilton is not on the Great Barrier Reef, but close to it. Until recently, it was not an upscale destination, but following a $75 million investment by the Oatley family, Hamilton attempted to join the world of luxury travel with the opening of 60-room Qualia resort in late 2007. My encyclopedia informs me that the word “qualia” derives from Latin and is now “a term used in philosophy to describe the subjective quality of experience.” From this definition, you may perhaps discern the level of the property's aspirations!
Following a seamless transfer and a welcoming glass of sparkling wine, we were driven through the attractively landscaped property to our Windward Pavilion, a low building with stone walls and a corrugated iron roof in the Australian vernacular style. The electric golf buggy was ours to use for the remainder of our stay. Our huge air-conditioned cottage (1,290 square feet) featured a dramatic cathedral ceiling, teak floors, a built-in couch, a wet bar and an elaborate television and audio setup that included an iPod dock. Spacious and comfortable though it was, the room was dark, and the fabrics and colors failed to create a tropical atmosphere. A large wooden deck with lovely sea views was furnished with a pair of wooden armchairs, as well as an uninviting daybed with a stained mattress. A small, unheated plunge pool flanked the deck. Our bedroom came with an effective ceiling fan, louvered windows with screens, and a high white clapboard ceiling. A huge black basalt-faced bath provided a tub and a large stall shower. A glass door led to an outdoor shower.
When we returned to the main lodge for dinner, it, too, seemed dark. A sunken seating area overlooked a long, narrow swimming pool that no one used, probably because it was in full view of the hotel's public spaces. The food, however, proved to be one of the high points of our stay. Both the veal with a relish of mint and fresh peas, and caramelized salmon with shaved fresh pineapple and soba noodles, were delicious. The service was very friendly, but disorganized and exasperatingly slow, especially at breakfast. Lunch was served in a seaside pavilion on the resort's pebbly main beach, but the restaurant lacked atmosphere and, as the menu was limited, we went to the Hamilton Island marina for our midday meals.
One conspicuous virtue of Qualia is its spa, housed within an airy stone bungalow with six spacious treatment rooms. The menu is extensive and appealing, and the outstanding therapies include the superb 90-minute “Kumali Ritual,” which begins with an exfoliation and massage using native Australian herbs and plants and continues with a body treatment of almond and macadamia nut oil followed by a hot poultice massage.
Qualia has received a good deal of ecstatic publicity, but we found it somewhat disappointing. Ultimately, it isn't a destination resort for Americans, but rather an expensive jumping-off point for anyone who wants to explore the Great Barrier Reef.
QUALIA 89 Leeward Pavilion, $900, including breakfast, airport transfers and some water activities; Windward Pavilion, $1,500. Hamilton Island, Queensland. Tel. (61) 7-4948-9222.
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