Tasmania is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. A day rarely passes when I don’t recall my first glimpse of Wineglass Bay in Freycinet National Park. Viewed after a 50-minute hike in light rain that caused the surrounding eucalyptus trees to release their refreshing mentholated scent, this perfect crescent of white sand, lapped by indigo sea and backed by forested mountains, induced an immediate sense of elation.
The Switzerland-size island off the southeastern coast of Australia has long been synonymous with the impossibly remote. And as I learned from friends in Sydney, even today it seems exotic and faraway to Australians. The flight time from Sydney to Hobart is only 75 minutes, however, so I might have been puzzled by the island’s end-of-the-earth reputation if I hadn’t read Nicholas Shakespeare’s superb book, “In Tasmania.” In fact, this fascinating history partly motivated my journey, along with a desire to stay at the acclaimed Saffire Freycinet hotel on the island’s east coast and an urge to discover Tasmania’s burgeoning food and wine scene.
The first European sighting of the island was by the Dutch navigator Abel Tasman in 1642, but it was the British who tentatively began to settle Tasmania 150 years later. Fierce battles with the Aboriginal people gave Tasmania a rough-and-tumble reputation. But today, Hobart, the capital, is a peaceful city that provides few clues to its turbulent history.
On arrival at the friendly and attractive 11-room Islington Hotel, we dropped our bags and immediately headed back into town to visit the Saturday-only farmers’ market. Set in the delightful Salamanca area overlooking the old port, this is a showcase for Tasmania’s thriving organic farming and artisan food culture, which itself reflects the island’s pristine natural environment. (Apparently, the air along the western coast of Tasmania is the purest in the world.)
Founded in 1804, Hobart is a handsome place built on hills overlooking a fine harbor. Though it reminded me of Portland, Maine, another old city with a maritime heritage, its concentration of Georgian cottages is a singular treasure. Following a mouthwatering visit to the market, where we snacked on organic ewe’s milk cheese drizzled with heather honey, we set off for a stroll around town. Hobart offers a succinct lesson in the successive idioms of Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian and art deco architecture, with many buildings constructed of lovely honey-colored sandstone. We then treated ourselves to a fine lunch of local oysters and venison- pork sausage risotto at Smolt, a stylish Mediterranean-inspired bistro,before returning to the Islington.
Painted cream and surrounded by a low wall, the hotel occupies an 1847 Regency villa, to which a striking glass-walled lounge with a woodburning fireplace has been added. This contemporary cathedral-ceilinged space becomes the hotel’s restaurant in the evening and also is where excellent cooked-to-order breakfasts are served from the adjacent open kitchen. While its public rooms display a sophisticated collection of modern art set off by local antiques and period furniture, the hospitality, style and amenities of the Islington are more those of an upmarket bed-and-breakfast than of a hotel. Rooms are cozy and comfortable, with underfloor heating, good lighting and luxurious handmade beds made up with Egyptian cotton sheets and mohair throws. The lodgings we recommend are in the original villa, specifically a Biedermeier-style Signature Room, a suite with a woodburning fireplace and a bath with oversize soaking tub, or one of the three charming Regency suites, which are furnished with a successful mix of antiques and modern art.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: Memorable views of Mount Wellington; excellent breakfast; lovely gardens; the owner’s outstanding collection of Australian antiques and contemporary art.
DISLIKE: Outlying location, a drive from the city center.
GOOD TO KNOW: More a B&B than a full-service hotel.
ISLINGTON HOTEL, "Charming." Regency Room, $575; Signature Room, $625. 321 Davey Street, South Hobart. Tel. (61) 3-6220-2123.
Though the Islington possesses considerable charm, its outlying location in a residential neighborhood is a drawback for anyone without a rental car. This is why we narrowly preferred The Henry Jones Art Hotel, which occupies a meticulously restored 1825 waterfront building that was once one of the largest jam factories in the world. (During its heyday, it converted much of the island’s stone fruit into supplies for British troops.) Owing to its fine location, the old structure was snapped up by investors, and the award-winning Australian architects Morris Nunn and Associates converted it into a stylish 56-room hotel.
On our arrival, the service seemed a little perfunctory, but upstairs, the property revealed its charm. (Be sure to book one of the second-floor rooms, since they have high ceilings and fine views of the port and Mount Wellington, the often-snowcapped peak that towers over Hobart.) Our Deluxe Spa Harbour View Room was spacious and well-lit, and its exposed sandstone walls were decorated with striking contemporary Australian art. After a sound night’s sleep, we awoke to seagull cries and ships’ horns in the harbor.
The Henry Jones doesn’t offer much by way of amenities beyond a restaurant, a lively bar and access to a nearby gym. However, its peerless location meant that we were able to walk to the Lark Distillery, which makes Tasmania’s unexpectedly good Highlands-style whiskey. And the hotel was also convenient for the ferry that travels up the Derwent River to the new and widely acclaimed Museum of Old and New Art (MONA).
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: Convenient harborfront location; spacious rooms; intriguing historical atmosphere.
DISLIKE: Dreary restaurant; overpriced breakfast.
GOOD TO KNOW: The bar can be noisy on weekends; the Lark whiskey distillery across the street gives interesting public tours, including a sample of its fine product.
THE HENRY JONES ART HOTEL, "Charming." Deluxe Spa Harbour View Room, $475. 25 Hunter Street, Hobart. Tel. (61) 3-6210-7700.
Leaving Hobart, we drove north through tranquil countryside on well-marked, mostly empty roads, and stopped for a lunch of freshly-shucked oysters and grilled lobster in the charming small town of Swansea. After two-and-a-half hours, we arrived at the Saffire Freycinet hotel, which opened in April 2010. (Sapphires are found widely in Tasmania, and Freycinet National Park was named after Henri and Louis de Freycinet, French mariners on an early 19th-century expedition.) In less than three years, the 20-room property has acquired an international reputation, so it was with high expectations that we checked in on a crisp, sunny afternoon.
Aerial photographs often show this contemporary resort as a dramatic silver stingray nestled in a eucalyptus forest beside Great Oyster Bay. At ground level, however, it was more low-key, with a style reminiscent of Northern California. An elevated walkway led to the upper level of the main lodge, a three-story building with floor-to-ceiling windows that afford magnificent and ever-changing views of the pink-hued Hazards mountains across the bay. The welcome was warm and well-organized: Our bags vanished; check-in formalities were minimal; and over a glass of Pirie, an excellent Tasmanian sparkling wine, a friendly guest-relations manager discussed our program of activities.
Having been escorted to our room via a covered boardwalk, we were immediately impressed by the comfort and beauty of this remarkably well- equipped and handsome suite. As in the main lodge, a window wall provided a sublime mountain and bay view. With an appealingly spare décor that recalled Scandinavian country hotels and Japanese ryokans, the split-level space came with eucalyptus floors, a cantilevered timber ceiling, an exposed gray stone wall, a blissfully comfortable bedroom area and a spacious bath lined in gray stone with an extra-long soaking tub and a separate shower. Down a step, we found a built-in desk, a bar stocked with wonderful local wines — notably the Freycinet Vineyard Louis Pinot Noir and Louis Riesling Schönburger — a plush built-in sofa, Danish Modern chairs and a big wool area rug with an abstract pattern. Saffire Freycinet offers three types of accommodations: Signature Suites have baths overlooking Great Oyster Bay, and more spacious living areas than the standard Luxury Suites, while Private Pavilions come with kitchens, dining areas and plunge pools.
It did not take long for us to become acquainted with our fellow guests — an engaging mix of couples from Sydney, Melbourne, London and San Francisco — and to settle into a daily rhythm. After a breakfast of, say, baked eggs with Spanish ham, sautéed onions and goat cheese, we would participate in one of the organized activities. Some of these are included in the daily rate, while others, such as a cruise around Great Oyster Bay or a small-plane excursion to Tasmania’s west coast, are expensive extras. We especially enjoyed a visit to the oyster-growing Freycinet Marine Farm, where we donned waders and strode into the sea. Other highlights included a tasting at Freycinet Vineyard and a bird-watching trip to Pelican Bay. Our only disappointment was that the spa was booked solid during our stay, which was a little mysterious, as the resort was only half full.
The food at Saffire Freycinet was consistently excellent. Lunch at the hotel was usually a buffet featuring freshly shucked oysters, roasted vegetables and a variety of imaginative salads, followed by dishes such as barbecued barramundi with herb butter, or chicken with salsa verde. Executive Chef Hugh Whitehouse has worked in no fewer than three Harper-recommended properties: Chewton Glen in England; The Dolder Grand in Zurich; and Lilianfels, a country house hotel in the Blue Mountains northwest of Sydney. In his Palate restaurant, Whitehouse employs the finest local ingredients in a menu that changes daily.
Henceforth, I intend to include a few days at Saffire Freycinet on all of my Australia itineraries. (It would pair remarkably well with my 2012 Hideaway of the Year, Southern Ocean Lodge off the coast of South Australia.) It is a superb hotel in a glorious setting, a destination resort that would warrant a journey halfway round the world even if Tasmania itself were not so spectacular.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: Spectacular setting; delightful young staff; superb food; handsome rooms; well-organized activities.
DISLIKE: The absence of an open-air deck or terrace at the main hotel building.
GOOD TO KNOW: High tree line can limit views from some rooms, so request one with an unencumbered outlook; the spa books up quickly, so make reservations before you arrive.
SAFFIRE FREYCINET, Rating 96 Signature Suite, $1,905 for two, including all meals, drinks and selected activities; Private Pavilion, $2,665. 2352 Coles Bay Road, Coles Bay. Tel. (61) 3-6256-7888.
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