Fine as Norwegian Wine

A trip report from Andrew Harper Travel Advisor Bridget Kapinus

When one envisions a quaint family-run cider house located on the edge of a secluded country town, the first (or even second) thought is hardly “I must be in Norway.” However, lo and behold, that was exactly where I stood. Balestrand is a picturesque fjord town perched on the edge of Sognefjord, the largest open fjord in the world. As the hideaway so enticing to Kaiser Wilhelm II that he simply could not cancel his yearly holiday to despite the Sarajevo Crisis, one can imagine the beauty and awe-inspiring views that this tiny haven is home to.

After exploring the historic Kviknes Hotel, which is still run by the family who originally built it in 1877, I strolled past the humble homes and the stave-style St. Olaf’s Church to find myself facing an almost Swiss chalet-looking building, The Cider House. The owner cheerfully greeted us with her smiling granddaughter in hand as she pointed out the surrounding orchards before leading us indoors. She introduced us to a vibrant and quirky-haired young man whom we later learned was her son. As soon as he began talking about The Cider House, it became obvious how passionate and involved he was in the family business. We sampled a variety of delicious fruit wines, ciders and brandies made from familiar fruits such as apples and pears, as well as a few more novel samples crafted from cloudberries, a delicious local treat I had only just been introduced to.

While the tasting was lovely, the most entertaining part of my experience was the “unique” cellar tour that our unconventional new friend led us on. As we descended down the stone stairs, he pointed out the barrels and elaborated on the process of distilling and fermenting each varietal. To my surprise, he then asked if I knew what their secret ingredient was. Having no real idea, I guessed that it was a local herb or fruit specific to the region. I was most certainly wrong. He informed me that every night before going to sleep, he would come down to the cellar and sing an old Norwegian lullaby to the ciders and wines. According to him, this is what in fact made them turn sweet rather than bitter or sour. Of course, he then switched off the lights and sang a few verses to demonstrate.

At the end of our visit, the owners hugged us as if bidding farewell to members of their own family. It was a truly unique and memorable experience and my solitary regret is that, due to Norwegian laws, I was not able to bring a bottle home as a souvenir.