'Wealth and fashion, as such, are not much attracted to our village,' wrote J. Smeaton Chase, in a charming book about Palm Springs published in 1920. But only a few years later, wealth had arrived in force, transforming his “unspoiled” enclave into a fashionable and glamorous resort. During the 1930s, at the height of the Hollywood studio system, numerous movie stars decamped to balmy Palm Springs to relax; it was within two hours of Los Angeles, and photographers were successfully discouraged from pestering celebrities there.
Stars and other individuals of means built vacation homes and resorts, designed by noted architects such as Albert Frey, Richard Neutra and E. Stewart Williams. Their airy, light-filled Mid-Century Modern creations take full advantage of the pleasant climate and mountain views. Vacationers originally focused on tennis, but the Palm Springs region now bursts at the seams with golf courses, kept green in the desert with water from a vast aquifer.
Large, comfortable resorts fill the spaces between the fairways, but none could be considered a luxury hideaway. My favorite property in the city remains The Willows, an eight-room mansion built in 1925 into the side of a mountain, a five-minute walk from the heart of downtown. Cloistered behind mature tropical gardens, this elegant Mediterranean Revival estate can barely be seen from the dead-end street leading to it, affording an unexpected level of privacy in so central a location. The property lacks a spa, fitness center or full-time restaurant, but those willing to forgo these amenities in exchange for an atmosphere of gracious tranquility will find no equal in Palm Springs.
Check-in is a friendly, informal affair. We were buzzed through the gate, and Steven, an amiable manager, walked down to meet our car and assist with the luggage. He escorted us past the shady swimming pool and up a flight of stairs to the Library Room, located on the opposite side of the main lounge from the other accommodations. Because it’s set apart from what used to be the “family” section of the house, Steven speculated that the Library Room was the primary guest room for the many luminaries who visited The Willows over the years, including Albert Einstein, Clark Gable, Mary Pickford and Shirley Temple.
Unusually, the Library Room retains its original bath, including a re-glazed vintage tub and separate tiled shower. I liked to imagine that my toothbrush rested on the same wall-mounted ceramic holder that Einstein had used a half-century earlier. The room itself contains an ornately carved antique writing desk, king-size bed, gas fireplace and large closet. Above, the coffered ceiling initially appears to be original, but lights behind the coffers indicate otherwise. The private patio’s two cushioned loungers are ideal for napping, soothed by the rush of a nearby waterfall.
But the breakfast room, with its colorfully painted ceiling, has the best views of this extravagant man-made water feature. There, tables face a wall of glass that can be opened to allow cool air to waft in. In this supremely peaceful setting, a three- course breakfast might start with an apricot/almond muffin followed by a cup of pineapple, blueberries and kiwi in a honey-lime sauce, and a main course of eggs Benedict. Formal silver coffee service adds to an atmosphere of gentility. In the adjacent lounge, which also appears not to have changed much in the last 75 years, guests gather around the fireplace each evening for complimentary wine and hors d’oeuvres, giving the occasion the feel of a congenial house party. One rather eccentric gentleman related how he managed to outrun a police car that was trying to pull over his vintage Rolls Royce for speeding (he got it up to 160 mph).
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: Historic character; house-party atmosphere; warm staff; indulgent breakfasts.
DISLIKE: Our room’s glass doors faced the landing used to enter/exit the hotel.
GOOD TO KNOW: The hotel has no elevator.
THE WILLOWS, Rating 92. The Rock Room, $475; Library or Marion Davies Room, $535. 412 West Tahquitz Canyon Way, Palm Springs. Tel. (760) 320-0771.
As fans of fine architecture, old or new, we couldn’t pass up the chance to stay in a mini modern masterpiece while in the Palm Springs area. In 1947, renowned architect John Lautner designed the four-room Desert Hot Springs Motel, about 20 minutes north of downtown, as part of a 600-acre planned community. After he built this prototype, the rest of the project fell through, and the land was subdivided. The building, clearly inspired by Lautner’s time at Frank Lloyd Wright’s Taliesin West in Scottsdale, went through a number of owners over the years, not all of whom showed deference to the original vision. But in 2008, interior designer Tracy Beckmann and furniture designer Ryan Trowbridge purchased the property and spent more than three years restoring its original appearance. The resulting Hotel Lautner—which functions more like a set of apartment rentals — may appeal to self-sufficient design aficionados in search of a quiet retreat.
Located at the end of a residential side street, the Hotel Lautner makes a somewhat inconvenient base for exploring Palm Springs, but it is ideally situated for excursions to Joshua Tree National Park and visits to nearby spas. We stayed for two nights, which is as much as I would recommend. A caretaker is always on duty, but towels are not replaced and beds never remade. However, the Hotel Lautner is an extraordinary structure. Clad with polished redwood planks, the four accommodations have concrete roofs supported by red I-beams, and walls of glass opening onto private patios and narrow, terrarium-like cactus gardens. The Desert Retreat, set behind the other three rooms, provides an extra measure of seclusion. Inside, the furnishings included a Thonet tub chair, Milo Baughman sofa and J. Wade Beam coffee table, as well as a bed frame custom-made by Brown + Trowbridge, the owner’s furniture design company. It wasn’t hard to imagine a scene from a James Bond film playing out in this retro-chic space. No breakfast is served, but we made good use of the Keurig coffeemaker. More ambitious guests can cook on the stovetop or even the full-size gas grill. And fortunately, the restaurants of Palm Springs are not far away.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: Beautifully restored architecture; striking Mid-Century Modern furnishings.
DISLIKE: The lack of service of any kind.
GOOD TO KNOW: The location is ideal for visiting several thermal and mineral spas where you can “take the waters.”
HOTEL LAUTNER, Hideaway, $270; Desert Retreat, $295. 67710 San Antonio Street, Desert Hot Springs. Tel. (760) 832-5288.
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