Portrait Firenze: New Florence Hotel by Ferragamo

Florence, like Venice, is overcrowded for much of the year. From Easter
to the first chill of fall, the tourist throngs can be disagreeable. I yearn for the Florence of Merchant Ivory’s “A Room With a View,” but I am resigned to the current reality. In high season, therefore, I prefer to stay either in Fiesole, a hill town overlooking the city, or at the wonderful Four Seasons, surrounded by 11 acres of private gardens.

Out of season, when the crowds have thinned, Florence becomes a city for strolling and contemplation once more.

Occupying a restored 15th-century palazzo and 16th-century convent, the Four Seasons Hotel Firenze provides an incomparable sanctuary. It does have the slight drawback, however, of being a 15-minute walk from the center of town. Out of season, when the crowds have thinned, Florence becomes a city for strolling and contemplation once more. And then it is a pleasure to stay at a hotel closer in, one from which you can conveniently wander to the Duomo or the Uffizi.

The 34-suite Portrait Firenze, which opened earlier this year, is located on the Arno River just steps away from the Ponte Vecchio. Owned by the Ferragamo family, it is a contemporary boutique hotel of distinction. (I have long recommended the other Ferragamo property in Florence, the 73-room Hotel Lungarno, which is located directly opposite on the southern, Pitti Palace, bank of the river.) On arrival, we found an elegant and understated reception, with particularly attractive and charming young staff. Our suite afforded a wonderful view of the Arno, and its décor was soothing and refined, the dark wood floors making a nice counterpoint to the blue-gray walls. The living room came with floor-to-ceiling windows, comfortable modern furniture and a gray-lacquered armoire that opened to reveal a well-appointed kitchenette. Adorning the walls were archival black-and-white photographs. The bath was just as stylish, with a walk-in shower and an ample supply of Ferragamo lotions and soaps.

The smart Caffè dell’Oro is named for the Florentine goldsmiths who for centuries plied their trade on the Ponte Vecchio. Chef Peter Brunel offers an all-day menu, as well as gourmet dining in the evening. Carnivores may wish to opt for the Chianina beef tartare. I also tried the superlative Acquerello risotto with Ossetra caviar and shrimp.

In winter or in shoulder seasons, the Portrait Firenze makes an ideal base in the heart of the city.

AT A GLANCE

LIKE: Refined contemporary design; hospitable staff; views of the Arno; proximity to major sights.

DISLIKE: The bar tends to be used more as a service area at dinner.

GOOD TO KNOW: As a guest at the Portrait, you have access to the spectacular rooftop bar of the sister Continentale hotel just a few steps away. If you enjoy modern design and want to be close to the center of the city, this could be the place for you.

Portrait Firenze 93 Studio, $730; Suite, form $845. Lungarno Acciaiuoli 4, Florence. Tel. (39) 055-2726-8000.

This article appeared in the December 2014 print edition of Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report under the headline “Florence: A New Ferragamo Hotel Beside the Arno.”