As a boy, one of my favorite diversions was a wooden puzzle of the United States, each state being a different piece. The only problem was that I kept losing the tiny red square that was Rhode Island! But in one respect the puzzle was misleading, for despite its size, the smallest state in the union possesses a coast of wide bays dotted with islands that give it an impressive length of shoreline.
This natural asset, plus proximity to both New York and Boston, long ago made Rhode Island a favorite summer retreat. The lovely city of Newport, with its enormous mansions — quaintly referred to as “cottages” — became an important part of American social history. On a lesser scale, the town of Watch Hill, set on a beautiful peninsula in the southwest corner of the state, drew wealthy families from the Midwest looking for seaside retreats after the Civil War. Arriving by train in nearby Stonington, Connecticut, they boarded steamships for the brief journey to the pier at Watch Hill, where they would disembark and then be taken by coach to one of the many grand hotels that sprang up to accommodate them.
Built in 1868, Ocean House was a Victorian mansion with a curved portico and rocker-lined verandas set on a hill that sloped gently down to an inviting arc of golden sand. Guests sipped tea in the afternoon and, after dinner, men in white tie and women in couture gowns danced to bands brought up from New York. Ocean House thrived and became known as “The Queen of the Atlantic Resorts.”
Watch Hill became so popular, however, that people began to build summer homes, gradually turning the town into a residential community. The hotels declined, and many succumbed to negligence and fire. Ocean House continued, but time and the salt air finally caught up with it. In 2003, its owner decided to sell. An initial group of buyers planned to tear it down, but an outraged community prevailed upon a local resident, Charles Royce, to save it. Royce put together the financing, but studies showed that the original building was too far gone to restore. Unfazed, Royce determined to re-create it. So more than 5,000 original elements — such as the 19th-century elevator and numerous architectural details — were put into storage so they could grace Ocean House in the future.
The reborn hotel opened in the late spring of 2010 and is an astonishingly faithful re-creation of the original, with the same sunny yellow clapboard exterior, black shutters, wide verandas and soaring mansard roof. We checked in for our incognito visit at the restored registration desk, though in place of a ledger, there is now a discreet computer screen. In the lounge, clusters of overstuffed chairs and potted palms were reminiscent of days gone by, but the massive stone fireplace blazed with a gas rather than a log fire. And therein lies the appeal of Ocean House: It evokes the charm of another age, but is also a comfortable modern hotel.
All 49 rooms and suites are generously sized and come with views of the sea, the most desirable being those with terraces on the second floor. The décor might be described as country house colonial, with meticulously wrought moldings, paneled doors, thoughtfully executed lighting and a full complement of comfortable furniture. Walls are hung with local scenes. In general, the colors are muted and those of the floral fabrics are pretty but subdued. Sumptuous baths come with marble vanities, river-stone flooring in the showers and soaking tubs with their own flat-panel TVs.
The hotel's primary restaurant, Seasons, has a horseshoe-shaped bar that faces an ultramodern open kitchen. If you wish, you can have dinner at the chef's counter and watch all the activity. We opted for the traditional dining room, however, drawn by its walls of windows with views of the sea. Executive Chef Albert Cannito's commitment to regional products is immediately evident on the menu, which lists the source for the primary ingredient of each dish. Everything we tried was delicious, but we especially enjoyed the handmade agnolotti filled with Hooligan cheese from Cato Corner Farm in Connecticut, which were served with walnuts, orange, pickled fennel and arugula in a rich bacon-blueberry emulsion. The roasted rib eye (from Wolfe's Neck Farm in Maine) was perfectly cooked as specified and came with grilled baby leeks, sautéed maitake mushrooms and puréed potatoes, all in a rich sauce Périgourdine. It was a memorable meal.
The next day, we attempted to mitigate some of the previous night's indulgence with a session in the lovely indoor pool. (This is part of an inviting spa and is open to the outdoors in good weather.) Further exercise was provided by a walk along the gorgeous beach, part of which is private to the hotel. Other diversions at Ocean House include golf at the Lake of Isles courses, tennis at the Pond View Club, fishing, boating and culinary classes that are part of the hotel's “Farm + Vine” program. The charming village of Watch Hill, with its shops and galleries, is just a short walk away.
Overall, we greatly admired this carefully updated version of a classic Atlantic resort, not least because of intangibles such as the superb service and accommodating attitude of the staff. Obviously, summer is the peak season, but Ocean House would be a terrific getaway for anyone in the southern New England area at most times of year.
OCEAN HOUSE 94 Standard Room, $285; Terrace Room, from $450; Suite, from $525. 1 Bluff Avenue, Watch Hill, RI 02891. Tel. (888) 552-2588 or (401) 584-7000.
I had been looking forward to renewing my acquaintance with Newport and to staying at a recently revived property, Vanderbilt Hall. Alas, my stay proved highly unsatisfactory, and I cut it short. However, the hotel was unexpectedly sold in late 2010, so it would clearly be unfair to review it.
From Newport, a pleasant drive took us to the eastern side of Rhode Island, through a landscape of gentle hills and towns with steepled churches set against a backdrop of the sparkling sea. Our destination, Little Compton, is situated in a lovely area with old farmhouses, stone walls and a ruggedly spectacular shoreline.
We stayed at Stone House, which opened last year. Built in 1854 as a private residence, it became an inn in the 1920s. The current owners have completely restored and renovated the property, as well as an adjacent 1870s barn. Alas, our stay didn't get off to an auspicious start. There was no good signage when we arrived — after dark —and the location of the main entrance was unclear. We chose a small door with a portico and, finding our way to what seemed to be a reception area, received a greeting that was casual to the point of being offhand.
Clearly a great deal of thought and money had been invested in our spacious suite in the barn. But the conversion had been done in a startling contemporary style that seemed wholly at odds with the exterior of the main building. Rather than feeling I was in an old house by the sea, it seemed as though I'd walked into a showcase apartment in downtown Manhattan. There was a sectional sofa set in front of a big flat-panel TV, a little corner kitchen with views across the lawn to the ocean, and a glass-tiled bath with a tub so deep that it required steps to clamber into it. The “fireplace” was a recess in a silvered wall with nothing but a gas strip burner to provide the flame: a design cliché from the Hip Hotel handbook. To be fair, the next morning I was able to see some of the suites in the main house. These were more appealing, with old architectural details mixed in with contemporary furniture and fixtures.
That evening we had dinner in 1854, the basement tavern in the main house. With dark walls and furniture, it was cozy and atmospheric. And the food was utterly delicious: The chowder was thick, sea-salty, slightly smoky from the bacon and contained a generous quantity of clams. The slow-roasted pork that followed was tender and juicy, with a side of maple-infused apples. Having eaten so well, we were looking forward to breakfast. Served in a plain room on the first floor of the main house, it turned out to be little more than bread and pastries, containers of yogurt, and cereal in the tiresome little boxes intended for children.
There are things at Stone House about which it is possible to enthuse. But I cannot recommend it unreservedly to Harper members, which is a shame, as this is such a beautiful part of New England. Perhaps much younger folk will feel more at home.
STONE HOUSE 84 Suite, $270-$360. 122 Sakonnet Point Road, Little Compton, RI 02837. Tel. (401) 635-2222.
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