Favorite Santiago Restaurants

On our visit to Santiago, I discovered an exciting tasting menu in upscale Vitacura and two wine-focused restaurants in the buzzing Lastarria neighborhood.

BORAGÓ

Santiago has its own version of noma, the famed Danish restaurant known for its unorthodox presentations and use of unusual seasonal, local ingredients. Occasionally, presentations at BORAGÓ went over the top — some dishes arrived perched in small trees — but almost everything on the reasonably priced tasting menu offered insight into unique Chilean ingredients. Our first course comprised a squid-ink breadstick coated in fresh garden herbs; a loco (Chilean sea snail) “sandwich;” and a briny, citrusy bite of piure, a local tunicate (marine invertebrate). Other memorable dishes included Valdivian venison tartare “hiding in a forest” of cenizo leaves; free-range Parral veal topped with scalded milk skin and tiny chaura fruit; and refreshing Atacaman rica-rica ice cream. Pairings of local wines were as audacious as the cuisine.

BORAGÓ
Av. Nueva Costanera 3467, Vitacura. Tel. (56) 2-2953-8893

Casa Lastarria

Housed in a triangular Tudor-revival building a short walk from The Singular hotel, this friendly, stylish restaurant has a well-priced list of fine Chilean wines and a tempting menu of Mediterranean and traditional Chilean dishes. I opted for a hearty appetizer of grilled octopus with potato confit and olive tapenade, and a smoked Angus sirloin steak accompanied by pan-seared gnocchi topped with tomatoes and olives. Glasses of round, rich Sauvignon Gris and focused, elegant Cabernet Sauvignon made for delicious pairings. The roof terrace is too sunny for lunch, but on warm evenings, it has some of Santiago’s most enviable dinner seating.

Casa Lastarria
José Victorino Lastarria 70. Tel. (56) 2-2638-3236.

Bocanáriz

Almost anyone who has visited Santiago recently will suggest Bocanáriz. This time, I must agree with the crowd and wholeheartedly recommend this wine-focused restaurant two blocks north of Casa Lastarria. The 36 Chilean wines by the glass can be sampled individually or in one of 11 flights. I created my own flight of wines from the highly regarded Casablanca Valley, including a forceful Morandé Brut Nature, a light and spicy Nimbus Gewürztraminer and a rich and earthy Cono Sur “Ocio” Pinot Noir. Both the traditional chupe, a creamy seafood stew, and piquillo peppers stuffed with savory lamb stew served on a bed of meaty quinoa were outstanding.

Bocanáriz
José Victorino Lastarria 276. Tel. (56) 2-2638-9893

Aquí Esta Coco

Aquí Esta Coco has long been a popular restaurant in the smart Providencia neighborhood. Having arisen from a major fire in 2008, it remains one of the capital’s most fashionable places, thanks to the loyal following of the Pacheco Baquedano family. We started with shellfish-packed empanadas, which were just delicious, and continued with the signature "mai mai" conger eel (which looked and tasted rather like North Atlantic loup de mer) in a fresh cream sauce with shrimp, mushrooms and ham. Closed Sunday and during the month of February.

Aquí Esta Coco
la Concepcion 236, Providencia. Tel. (56) 2-2410-6200