The natural splendors of Costa Rica may no longer be a secret, but thankfully, it requires only minimal effort to escape the main tourist circuit and discover regions of extravagant, unspoiled beauty. National parks and other reserves occupy a full 25 percent of the country, encompassing tropical dry forests, rain forests, cloud forests, beaches and lush coastal wetlands. Jewel-tone birds, butterflies and frogs contrast sharply with the shimmering greens of the landscape.
At many properties, you need venture no farther than your veranda to observe iridescent hummingbirds, lazy iguanas and delicate blue morpho butterflies, fluttering like bits of periwinkle Mylar on the breeze. At every opportunity, I relaxed outside our accommodations with a novel, but made little headway because of this wonderfully distracting environment.
Nowadays, luxurious resorts allow travelers to visit Costa Rica in complete comfort, but to get the most out of a vacation here, it helps to approach your itinerary with a sense of adventure. Those willing to forgo certain amenities such as television and room service have an array of fine eco-lodges from which to choose. A journey in Costa Rica requires, in most cases, making trade-offs. Some of the most transcendently beautiful landscapes can only be accessed by staying at properties with limited services, including, in many cases, a lack of air-conditioning. The best approach, therefore, is to start by “roughing it” at one or two of the best eco-lodges before decamping to the sophisticated resorts on the Pacific coast.
Because my last major tour of Costa Rica focused almost exclusively on these coastal properties, I wanted this visit to concentrate on the country’s jungle lodges, both in the interior and on the Caribbean coast. We started at the most rustic hotel onmylist, Tortuga Lodge & Gardens, owned and managed by the reliable Costa Rica Expeditions. This 27-room eco-lodge fronts the Tortuguero lagoon, separated from the Caribbean by a narrow strip of forest and untamed beach. Although it’s possible to reach Tortuga Lodge by a combination of road and motorboat, I recommend taking the 30-minute charter flight from San José, even if it means temporarily storing a piece of luggage or two in the Costa Rica Expeditions office. As indicated by the name, sea turtles are a major focus of a stay here, at least during the nesting season (late June through September). But those who stay outside of this season, as we did, have the compensation of Tortuguero National Park, 51,870 acres of tropical rain forest laced with a picturesque labyrinth of brackish rivers and canals. This ecosystem supports a vast array of wildlife, guaranteeing that visitors encounter numerous species on each excursion. In such a place, it seems almost impossible to avoid becoming an avid bird-watcher.
The adjacent open-air restaurant presented surprisingly delicious food, considering the remote setting.
Accessing this remarkable environment comes at a price, however, and Tortuga Lodge will not appeal to everyone. Accommodations have no air-conditioning, nor even glass windows — the wood-walled rooms are enclosed by screens, cooled only by the breezes. Shower-only tile baths are more functional than luxurious. And even if you have a preferred Upstairs Balcony Room, the shared veranda offers no separation between your seating and that of your neighbor. Indeed, we had to pass directly between our neighbor’s hammock and two chairs to descend the stairs. Upstairs Balcony Rooms 3, 7, 11, 18 and 24 are the most desirable, but only the Penthouse Suite affords real privacy. Nevertheless, the hammock on our veranda proved exceedingly comfortable, and the lagoon-side swimming pool, surrounded by numerous comfortable loungers, was a delightful place to relax and cool off each afternoon. The adjacent open-air restaurant presented surprisingly delicious food, considering the remote setting. The Asian-inspired dishes were the most consistent, notably the Vietnamese-style vegetarian wraps, the ginger-marinated beef on sugarcane skewers, and the non-cloying sweet-and-sour chicken. We were fortunate to have mostly clear evenings, and after dinner, Mrs. Harper and I would relax with glasses of wine by the pool, contemplating the stars from our loungers.
AT A GLANCE:
LIKE: The lagoon-view infinity pool; the glorious mangrove-like ecosystem.
DISLIKE: The rooms’ lack of privacy.
GOOD TO KNOW: You can ignore the lodge’s recommendation of a 5:30 a.m. charter flight and arrive later.
TORTUGA LODGE & GARDENS, Rating 89. Upstairs Balcony Room, $168; Penthouse Suite, $238. Tortuguero. Tel. (506) 2257-0766.
We departed from Tortuga Lodge by motorboat, winding our way along the Rio Suerte for more than an hour to reach the first gravelly road where our driver was waiting. Many choose to rent their own cars in Costa Rica, and I have done so in the past, but I strongly recommend hiring a driver instead. Even with advances in GPS technology, navigating Costa Rica’s often signless roads can be stressful. In addition, pavement conditions can be poor, and flat tires are not uncommon. One couple we spoke with described their alarm when their car rental company explained what to do when (not if) they got a flat tire. In contrast, when our van suffered a flat at one point, our driver and guide sprang into action and we were back on our way in 12 minutes.
Guests generally arrive by raft — the lodge is inaccessible by road
As we drove away from the Rio Suerte, I felt relieved not to be behind the wheel attempting to navigate the potholed, rutted lane leading to the main road. After 45 minutes of bumps, the tires at last found pavement and our driver sped toward Pacuare Lodge. Whereas the focus of Tortuga Lodge is on nature, Pacuare Lodge emphasizes adventure and romance. Guests generally arrive by raft — the lodge is inaccessible by road — but since we were the only people checking in that day, we were obliged to cross the Rio Pacuare in a glorified basket hanging from a rope and pulleys, which, fortunately, felt safer than it sounds. An ATV took us the remaining distance to our Linda Vista Suite, the largest and loveliest category of Pacuare Lodge’s 19 villas and cabins.
We stayed in “Morpho,” up a steep hill from the restaurant and bar (of the Linda Vista Suites, “Heliconia” and “Morpho” require the shortest climbs). If the uphill climb is daunting, opt instead for a River View Suite, ideally “Tortuga” or “Congo.” The doors of our suite wouldn’t have been out of place in an Asian temple, and the spacious interior successfully mixed Asian, local and contemporary design elements. A vaulted cane ceiling sheltered a Balinese-style seating group and a very comfortable bed canopied with mosquito netting, plus tropical flower arrangements and hardwood floors. A grand bath comprised dual vanities, a claw-foot tub, a shower stall and an outdoor shower. Outside, we cooled off in our unheated private pool, and relaxed with books in the loungers or oversize hammock overlooking the verdant hills across the river.
As the sun set, we faced a choice. Since the accommodations at Pacuare Lodge have no electricity, we could either attempt to function by flashlight or candlelight, or simply head down to the bar, which did have power. Everyone made the same decision we did, and it was great fun recounting the day’s adventures to our fellow guests, an active group ranging in age from mid-20s to early 60s. We talked with one brave 51-year-old guest who tried her hand at canyoning, which involves rappelling down a series of ropes alongside a waterfall on the property. I took her at her word that it was an empowering experience. Downstairs from the bar, meals from the open kitchen were served at well-spaced tables on a terrace above the river. The cuisine was satisfying and occasionally refined, a significant achievement, considering that all ingredients arrive by raft. I particularly enjoyed the refreshing gazpacho-like cucumber soup, moist sea-bass roulades over al dente lemon risotto, and perfectly cooked pork loin in a teriyaki glaze with crunchy green beans. A walk-in wine cellar contained an admirable selection of South American, European and American vintages. One night, the restaurant arranged a private riverside dinner for a couple on their honeymoon, lighting a fire and surrounding their table with candles.
It rained softly our first evening, and Mrs. Harper and I strolled back up to our suite beneath an umbrella, discussing the slow meal service and the minor housekeeping and maintenance flaws we’d noticed. We opened the door to our suite and discovered two dozen candles glowing within, flickering from a variety of hanging lanterns and wall sconces. Suddenly it didn’t seem to matter how often our water glasses had been refilled at dinner, or that the towels on our outdoor loungers hadn’t been refolded or replaced.
To depart, we embarked aboard one of the resort’s inflatable rafts for an 18-mile, four-hour float down the river. Dinosaurs would surely have felt at home in the thriving primary rain forest clinging to the vertiginous riverbanks, which occasionally narrowed into dramatic gorges. The Class III and IV rapids we braved required more courage of spirit than physical stamina, and often we could simply relax, spying clusters of orchids clinging to towering hardwoods. When we did encounter rapids, our guide gave us easy-to-follow instructions, ensuring our safe (and exhilarating) passage. I never once felt in danger of being ejected from the raft. Whitewater rafting can sound daunting, but in this warm-water river, surrounded by breathtaking scenery and in the hands of an expert guide, I felt nothing but delight.
AT A GLANCE:
LIKE: The spacious, beautifully designed Linda Vista Suites; the romance of candlelight evenings.
DISLIKE: Slow service at meals; occasional housekeeping oversights; cold private pools.
GOOD TO KNOW: The main office has Wi-Fi and several power strips available for recharging electronic devices.
PACUARE LODGE, Rating 91. River-View Junior Suite, $783; Linda Vista Suite, $1,065. Santa Marta. Tel. (506) 2224-0505.
After an overnight in San Jose, we headed three hours north to La Fortuna, near the dramatic Arenal Volcano. The zip lines here are reportedly thrilling, the hanging bridges make for an enjoyable jungle walk, and the lesser-known hot springs are very relaxing. But finding tranquil and unspoiled nature in this touristy area requires some effort. There is no shortage of high-end resorts, but as we discovered, few are truly recommendable. My favorite was the plush Nayara Hotel, Spa & Gardens, and many others agree, judging by the difficulty we had in securing a reservation. There’s no need to worry about roughing it in this luxurious retreat. The 50 guest villas are separated from one another by colorful tropical gardens, and each offers air-conditioning, cable television and room service. The octagonal Nayara Suites are the largest accommodations, with exquisite hardwood floors, dark Balinese-style furnishings and soaring cane ceilings. The immense limestone-clad bath occupies a full half of the room, with indoor and outdoor showers, dual vanities and multicolor glass windows. Outside, an expansive terrace sweeps halfway around the suite, with a curtained Jacuzzi, hammock and various comfortable seating groups. I loved to start my morning on the terrace, watching hummingbirds dart by, the outline of the volcano just visible through the jungle. Alas, construction noise disturbed the tranquility later in the day.
Maintenance at the Nayara Hotel was flawless — I could barely find a single leaf on the paved paths through the gardens — but our meals were uneven.
Maintenance at the Nayara Hotel was flawless — I could barely find a single leaf on the paved paths through the gardens — but our meals were uneven. The fish in the jewel box of a sushi restaurant was not of the highest quality. The octopus appetizer we shared in the chic wine bar was flavorful but overcooked, as were the main restaurant’s rubbery shrimp brochettes. Other dishes were excellent, however, including a tangy tilapia ceviche with green olives; superbly fresh fish tacos; and a surprisingly fine room-service lunch of tilapia in a white wine, butter and avocado sauce. I also enjoyed expertly mixed cocktails at the swim-up bar in the free-form pool, where a few additional lounge chairs were needed to accommodate all of the guests at the busiest times. But I had no quibbles with the small spa, where I indulged in a restorative volcanic mud massage. The treatment was supposed to last 45 minutes, but my therapist worked on me for an hour in a breezy, open-air room, gently exfoliating my skin while simultaneously soothing muscles tired from the day’s hiking.
AT A GLANCE:
LIKE: The amenity-rich accommodations; the efficient and friendly service; the flawless maintenance; the privacy.
DISLIKE: The touristy feel of the Arenal area; the uneven quality of the meals.
GOOD TO KNOW: This property often sells out months in advance.
NAYARA HOTEL, SPA & GARDENS, Rating 92. Casita Deluxe, $245; Nayara Suite, $360. La Fortuna. Tel. (506) 2479-1600.
Just 15 minutes away stands the Lost Iguana, a resort of about the same size and price as the Nayara Hotel. There, the similarities end. Our driver, booked through the Lost Iguana, transferred us to the hotel while wearing an old T-shirt, flip-flops and torn, dirty jeans. Our room sounded pleasant on paper, with a broad patio, outdoor hot tub and volcano views, but it felt tired, an impression compounded by the cobwebs on the ceiling fan. The bath lacked certain simple items such as facial tissues and a bathmat, and we didn’t receive nightly turndown. Matters did not improve in the public areas. Service at lunch was laughably clumsy and excruciatingly slow — it took an hour to obtain a simple appetizer and two glasses of wine — and my steak at dinner was almost inedibly rare. Poolside conversation revolved around hangovers as much as anything, and seeing a large rat happily doing laps in the evening finally convinced me that this was one resort that should remain lost. The professional Golden Gecko Spa, across a road from the rest of the property, was the one bright spot. I particularly enjoyed a restorative and hydrating Ethiopian candle massage, which makes use of a special wax with an unusually low melting point.
AT A GLANCE:
LIKE: The riverside spa; the fine volcano views.
DISLIKE: The tired accommodations; the poor food; the often inept meal service.
GOOD TO KNOW: This hotel is right at the entrance to the popular Arenal Hanging Bridges.
LOST IGUANA RESORT & SPA, Rating 84. Luxury Suite, $275; Villa Junior Suite, $495. La Fortuna. Tel. (506) 2267-6148.
We checked out with relief and headed two hours south into Costa Rica's famed cloud forests, a mysterious landscape of emerald mountains evocatively draped with mist. A marked contrast to the tropical dry forests along the Pacific coast, the cool, humid cloud forests shelter a remarkable diversity of species, including otherworldly flowering plants, reclusive mammals and hundreds of different birds, many with iridescent plumage. Certain species reside only in these forests, and as a result are now endangered, despite Costa Rica’s work to preserve as much of the environment as possible. The best base for exploring this unique ecosystem is El Silencio Lodge & Spa, a 15-villa resort on a private 500-acre reserve connecting Poás Volcano and Juan Castro Blanco national parks, tucked away from the much more well-known Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve. Despite this off-the-beaten-track location near the village of Bajos del Toro, roads leading to the resort are good, and guests have a wide range of activities at their disposal, including hikes in the private reserve, whitewater rafting, horseback riding, zip-lining, cooking classes and even ox-cart decoration!
Although El Silencio’s property is hilly, several of its villas can be reached without a climb. Villas 14 and 16 are close in, and 17, which directly overlooks the river near the spa, would also suit those seeking to avoid an uphill walk. Guests willing to make a short ascent should opt instead for 2, 4, 6, 7, 8 or 11, which offer the most seclusion. Villas 10 and 12 are slightly more exposed, but large clusters of flowering Jamaica vervain along their verandas draw numerous hummingbirds. We spent several happy hours reading in the comfy leather rockers on our veranda, looking up form time to time to observe the birdlife and to take in the misty green slopes opposite the lodge. Inside, the wood-floored villas have exceptionally comfortable king-sized beds and two built-in daybeds, each of which can be made up for a child. Mats of woven bamboo covered the ceiling, some of which exhibited discoloration, likely because of the humidity. The white ceiling in the limestone-clad bath also had mildew spots in need of attention, but the outdoor jacuzzi provided some compensation. The accommodations have neither televisions nor air-conditioning, but I didn't miss them. Each deliciously cool evening, we turned on the small heater before getting into our bed, warming our toes on the hot water bottles provided at turndown. In fact, because of the higher elevation here, we usually wore light jackets or sweaters at night.
Set along a rushing stream, the main building houses the office, gift shop, movie room and a stylish restaurant and bar. Considering the extensive organic greenhouse on the property, salads were oddly forgettable, but the main courses were consistently well-prepared, especially the succulent pork tenderloin in a tamarind-ginger sauce, and the Mediterranean-style trout raised in El Silencio's own trout pond. Flavorful eggs at breakfast came fresh from the lodge’s chicken coop. The commendable Esencia Spa across the river is the lodge’s other main amenity (there is no pool). Mrs. Harper booked the 90-minute El Silencio Purifying Revival, a smorgasbord of treatments including light Thai-style stretching, fluid massage strokes, compresses filled with warm corn kernels and even a mini-facial, complete with exfoliation and an aloe mask. She emerged looking thoroughly relaxed. Athletic guests can also take advantage of the spa’s tranquil yoga deck.
On our last morning, we planted a tree in front of our villa. As we carefully patted fresh earth around the sapling, our charming eco-concierge informed us that the tree was enough to offset the carbon we emitted in reaching the resort. I’m not sure if that is accurate, but I can say with certainty that it was an inspiring way to end a memorable two weeks.
AT A GLANCE:
LIKE: Our knowledgeable eco-concierge; the cloud forest setting; the range of excursions; the professional restaurant service.
DISLIKE: The spots of mildew on our ceiling; the occasional noise from construction on the property.
GOOD TO KNOW: The high elevation makes for cooler temperatures than elsewhere in Costa Rica.
EL SILENCIO LODGE & SPA, Rating 90. Deluxe Suite, $325. Bajos del Toro. Tel. (506) 2231-6122.
Illustrations © Melissa Colson.
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