Where To Go, When: The Migration

The herds migrate to find fresh grazing, and their movements can be unpredictable. In January and February, however, the wildebeest are reliably to be found on the Serengeti’s southern plains, where, over a period of two to three weeks, around 400,000 calves are born. This spectacle is best seen from a private tented camp with its own driver/guide, who will know how to escape the tourist crowds. Otherwise, I recommend Sanctuary Kusini, an upscale camp of 12 tented suites. In March, the herds move on. They may head northwest through the park or (inconveniently) into adjoining hunting concessions.

In 2013, the main group passed Singita Grumeti from June 14-16. By August, the animals have congregated beside the Mara River, but it is impossible to say exactly when they will take the plunge. During September, they graze the lush grass of Kenya’s Maasai Mara. And around the end of October, they head south. The eastern Serengeti has become much drier as a result of climate change, and the migration route is now uncertain, but by January, the herds will be back on the southern plains.