Wine Country Restaurants

In addition to fine meals in the places we stayed, we also enjoyed a number of restaurants along the way. The following were some of the culinary highlights.

TRATTORIA GRAPPOLO — A short walk from the Santa Ynez Inn, this convivial place serves very good Italian food. After simple but delicious ciabatta crostini with buffalo mozzarella, prosciutto and sage, I opted for the penne with Italian sausage and white truffle oil. This was followed by an excellent Milanese pork chop, pounded thin, breaded, pan fried and then served under arugula and cherry tomatoes with sliced potatoes. The wine list features 12 selections by the glass.

3687 Sagunto Street, Santa Ynez. Tel. (805) 688-6899.

ARTISAN — More than one winemaker recommended this stylish American bistro to us during our stay in Paso Robles. A joint venture of brothers Michael and Chris Kobayashi, the restaurant has a minimalist yet comfortable interior, and excellent contemporary cooking. To start, I tucked into a rich, tasty abalone tostada, served with avocado and pork-belly carnitas. And for my main, I tried the satisfying lamb chop with braised shank, carrots and a feta salsa verde. The wine list offers 26 by-the-glass choices.

1401 Park Street, Paso Robles. Tel. (805) 237-8084.

DIAVOLA — Staff at the Farmhouse Inn in northern Sonoma urged us to try this rustic place, centered on a wood-fired oven, and it comfortably exceeded its modest billing as a “Pizzeria & Salumeria.” Chef Dino Bugica aims to serve “cucina povera,” employing simple local ingredients in dishes that have been proven over the centuries. I can certainly recom- mend the outstanding chicken grilled under a brick and served with roasted potatoes and a Tuscan kale salad with Parmesan shavings. The wine list contains only local bottlings.

21021 Geyserville Avenue, Geyserville. Tel. (707) 814-0111.

CAFE BEAUJOLAIS — Ensconced in a charming little house within easy walking distance of the MacCallum House, Café Beaujolais has long been noted for its locavore sensibilities. I began with local Dungeness crab cakes, accompanied by a zesty Asian slaw and crispy noodles in a scallion vinaigrette. My main course was an utterly memorable pan-roasted California sturgeon fillet with house-made tagliatelle, wild mushrooms, beets and snap peas. Do not miss dinner here; the cooking is exceptional.

961 Ukiak Street, Mendocino. Tel. (707) 937-5614.