Vientiane

Vientiane is a step back in time, and treetops still define its skyline. The city was first recommended to me by a retired CIA officer during a cooking class at the Sofitel Legend Metropole in Hanoi. While chopping lemongrass and splashing fish sauce into woks, I mentioned that I regretted how quickly Saigon had changed over the previous 20 years. “You must try Vientiane,” he told me. “It’s one of the few Asian cities that hasn’t gone all ‘American Sun Belt modern.’ It’s still a small French colonial place, with broad avenues, baguettes and some terrific restaurants.” The principal sights merit a stay of two or three days; you’ll find your own way to the wonderful wats (Buddhist temples).