Bangkok

Inspired by working with David Thompson at nahm in London (see below), Duangporn Songvisava and Dylan Jones opened this restaurant dedicated to preserving the traditions of Thai cooking. There are three set menus — with the somewhat annoying proviso that you can’t switch courses — featuring dishes such as herb-fried chicken with coconut-water-pickled bamboo shoots and cardamom shoots, and “Krau” curry of grilled fish with summer melon and pumpkin. Closed Monday.

Though star chef David Thompson no longer helms this restaurant, nahm at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok is still an outstanding Michelin one-star restaurant now run by chef Pim Techamuanvivit. The emphasis here is on creating traditional Thai dishes that feature fresh produce. Look for dishes such as lobster served with green mango and snake fruit (salak); a relish of wild prawns with tamarind and ginger; or a rich red curry served over duck, yellow eggplant and snake fruit.

This superb restaurant occupies the first floor and expansive terrace of a beautiful 100-year-old villa with elements of Thai and Western design. Likewise, chef Ian Kittichai melds Thai techniques and ingredients with Western concepts. Because much of the cooking is market-driven, the menu changes regularly, but you will often find the chef’s specialties, such as mussuman gae (massaman curry with lamb shank), and a delicious jasmine-flower flan dessert.

Set in a lovely century-old building, this restaurant features a pleasing mix of classic and contemporary Thai food. On the far-ranging menu, you can choose from dishes such as lamb in coconut milk with massaman curry paste, tamarind juice, palm sugar, sweet purple potatoes and roasted peanuts; grilled spare ribs with organic honey and Thai herbs from the Royal Project farm; and stir-fried spicy fresh prawns with bird’s eye chiles, Thai garlic and holy basil. The on-site cooking school offers excellent classes led by head chef Nooror Somany Steppe.

This Bangkok favorite occupies a converted house that offers a traditional Thai atmosphere. The menu covers a range of dishes that employ ingredients from the restaurant’s own organic farm, and the curries, especially those with seafood, are excellent. Try the stir-fried tiger prawns with cashews and ginkgo nuts, or the grilled snow fish topped with crispy lemongrass, makrut lime leaf and galangal. The level of spice intensity can be adjusted to suit your palate. Unlike many upscale Thai restaurants in the city, the Thais themselves patronize this one. Reservations are essential.