Many parts of the hill country north of Chiang Mai are still inhabited by colorful tribal people. It is a three-hour drive from Chiang Mai to the northern provincial capital of Chiang Rai, and it’s another 60 minutes to the ancient Lanna city of Chiang Saen, a calm old town fronting the mud-brown waters of the Mekong River. Over the centuries, Chiang Saen has witnessed numerous battles with the neighboring Burmese, as well as gang wars among the drug barons of the infamous Golden Triangle. However, the gangsters were obliged to depart, and an era of peace and legitimate prosperity has dawned.