Capital of India during much of the British Raj, Calcutta adopted the Bengali name “Kolkata” in 2001. Located in the Ganges Delta, Kolkata was only recently overtaken by Mumbai as the most populous Indian city. Although the area has experienced a recent economic upturn, poverty is still conspicuous and severe. Amid the squalor stand neoclassical palaces, moss-covered mansions, an imposing Gothic cathedral, chaotic markets and hibiscus-adorned Hindu temples. Kolkata has long considered itself the country’s intellectual hub, and has acted as a crucible of Indian art, music, film and literature.